Bulgaria > Through the Yagodina Cave

Bulgaria - An old Roman bridge still intact

At nine o’clock, I leave the hotel by bus. In about half an hour, I arrive at the village of Borino. Just past Borino lies an old Roman bridge in Dospat National Park. The bridge has now been replaced by a modern version and is no longer in use. Its old stone construction, however, remains intact. Svetoslava explains that the bridge served as a model for many medieval bridges in the region, which is why the exact age of these bridges is not always clear. I walk across the old stone bridge to take a photo from the other side with the light behind me. Afterward, the bus drives a short distance to the village of Dospat, where I get off to begin the walk. I follow Svetoslava through the village. Several people wave to the group, though overall the streets are very quiet. Just outside the village, the route takes a country lane into the forest. The path gradually rises. The road shows clear signs of yesterday’s heavy rain—deep ruts remain in the dirt track. I try to imagine what it must have been like walking here in the rain yesterday. A short break is taken at a bench before continuing toward the summit. As I approach a small group of houses, it’s time for lunch. I eat my packed lunch on the grass. Today the weather is beautiful, and the sun is shining. I lie back in the grass to enjoy it. Before the afternoon program, I refill my water bottles at a water well.

Bulgaria - The last houses of Borino

It’s good that there are regular spots along the route to access mountain water. The path follows a ridge, with deep valleys on both sides—a stunning view. As I return to the forest, a steep descent leads toward the Yagodina Cave. I follow a narrow zigzag path through the woods. Occasionally, the path is quite steep, and I have to watch my footing to avoid slipping. Low-hanging branches make the descent even trickier. I estimate that few people use this route. Around four o’clock, I arrive at Yagodina Cave. The bus is already waiting, and I can leave my backpack and camera behind. Photography is not allowed inside the cave. The guide welcomes us. He speaks in Bulgarian, and Svetoslava translates for us. I look at him as he speaks in Bulgarian and realize that there is not a single word or facial expression I can understand. Bulgarian is truly a difficult language. Yagodina Cave is a cave system with more than ten kilometers of passages spread over three levels. As soon as I enter, I see stalactites hanging from the ceiling—a magnificent sight. The route through the cave passes several underground chambers. Sometimes the passage is very narrow, or I have to bend to avoid hitting the stalactites. The pre-walk warning—“don’t disturb the stalactites with your head”—is well justified.

Bulgaria - The route runs along a mountain ridge with deep valleys on both sides

I follow the path for over a kilometer and am impressed by the beautiful rock formations. When I step outside, I notice just how cool it had been in the cave. Outside, it suddenly feels warm, almost like a heater is on. The day’s program is finished. I could take the bus back to the hotel, but I decide with a few fellow travelers to walk back. I take a small forest path and climb higher and higher. After about an hour, I see the village of Yagodina below. The last stretch is downhill to the village center. At the café, I sit on the terrace for a drink. I need to hurry to have a quick shower at the hotel and get to dinner on time. Tonight, trout is on the menu—delicious!