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When the weather clears, we walk to the boulevard along the shore of the Caspian Sea. On the way, we come across the barricades set up for Formula 1. There seems to be no way to cross to the other side of the street. Bystanders gesture that a little further on we can pass under the road. This brings us to the waterfront. Along the boulevard stretches a six-kilometer-long Seaside Park. From the boulevard we see the modern skyline of Baku and the peninsula we visited this morning. On the other side of the Caspian Sea lies Turkmenistan. From here, however, the country cannot be seen. What we can see are the famous Flame Towers of Baku. The three towers rise above the center. The modern towers symbolize the “Land of Fire,” as Azerbaijan is often called.
The first part is still paved, but the last 25 kilometers are unpaved. The road is full of potholes filled with rainwater. We drive very slowly. Hard to believe this is the only route to Ushguli. The other mountain pass is still closed due to snow. Streams run across the road, puddles stretch the full width. It’s a real challenge to get higher into the mountains. After nearly three hours of driving, we reach Ushguli and spot a camper van with Dutch license plates. When we stop, someone immediately asks: “Are you from Hiero to Tokyo?” Marleen and Roderick are traveling in an old Mercedes van and had already contacted us online. They call their van Circumbendibus. Last week they ran into friends of ours in Batumi who told them about our journey. Small world. They’re camping just outside Ushguli — there’s no flat ground in the village. We spend the night at a guesthouse in Ushguli.