China > The Huanglong Travertine Pools

I hear it raining during the night. A heavy shower passes over, and I even hear a clap of thunder. I hadn’t expected this. The past few days the sky had been completely clear. Just before half past seven, everyone is ready to leave. However, one travel companion is missing. It turns out he drank too much yesterday and is hungover. Unfortunately, this isn’t the first time. Frank goes to get him and helps him onto the bus. This takes quite a bit of time, so we don’t leave until eight o’clock. The group’s frustration is growing. Today, we drive through the rolling landscape toward Songpan. Large herds of yaks graze the grasslands. The scenery reminds me somewhat of Kyrgyzstan. Even the yurt tents are scattered throughout the valley. It’s cloudy today—hopefully the rain will stay away. After a few hours of driving, the landscape becomes more mountainous. The bus driver is being very cautious today. He strictly adheres to the speed limit, likely because checks are common here. At times it feels like we’re crawling along the road. A railway is being constructed along the route. Large machinery digs tunnels and lays tracks. At the second toilet stop, the driver is required to take a twenty-minute break. Around 12:30 we reach the junction for Huanglong National Park. Here we stop at a restaurant for lunch. I would have preferred to head straight to the national park, but getting something to eat is fine too. It seems everyone feels the same, as within half an hour everyone has finished eating. We quickly drive the last few kilometers to Huanglong. When we arrive, dozens of buses are already parked—a sign that the park will likely be crowded. More coaches full of Chinese tourists are arriving. At the ticket office, I buy an entry ticket and one for the cable car. The highlight of Huanglong is the Yellow Dragon Valley, named for its golden color and winding shape that resembles a dragon. The valley is dotted with hundreds of colorful travertine pools, formed by limestone deposits in a cascading pattern. The pools reflect sky-blue, emerald green, and golden-yellow water depending on the sunlight and mineral content. By using the cable car, we can start at the top and walk back down. To reach the cable car station, we take a shuttle bus.

China - The beautiful water basins of Huanglong National Park

Then I join the queue for the gondola. After about fifteen minutes, it's our turn. In the gondola are some Chinese people who lived in London for years, which makes communication a bit easier. At the top, the walkway to the Huanglong Valley begins. It’s crowded on the three-meter-wide wooden path. Since most Chinese walk just a little slower, it’s hard to overtake. Following local custom, I occasionally use my body to gently make space. The distance to the Five-Color Pond is longer than I expected, partly because I now urgently need a toilet. Luckily, after about twenty minutes of walking, we reach the Ancient Temple, where there are restrooms. We decide not to visit the temple yet and to first walk the loop around the Five-Color Pond. As I climb the steps of the wooden walkway, I can clearly feel the altitude—almost 4,000 meters. But the reward comes quickly. The Five-Color Pond consists of multiple basins formed by mineral and lime deposits. The basins lie in cascading tiers, and each has a different color due to the minerals. It’s a stunning sight. I was afraid we’d only see dried-up basins during the dry season, but thankfully that’s not the case. When we return to the temple shortly after four o’clock, it turns out to be just closed. A shame. That means we can begin our descent. From this point, a wooden staircase with many steps leads downward. The entire route is four kilometers long. Along the way, we pass large limestone deposits and dry basins. It must be even more beautiful here during the rainy season.

China - Basins form on the mountainside due to mineral deposits

Even during the descent, it's crowded. Thousands of people are heading back to the parking area in the late afternoon. I can’t imagine where all these people will eat and sleep tonight. We’re continuing to Songpan, but that town doesn’t have hundreds of hotel beds. I suspect the park is nearly impassable during peak season. I’m already feeling slightly irritated by the sheer number of visitors. Some people are walking with oxygen tanks—probably affected by the altitude. Perhaps the long descent is simply too much for some. As I descend the steps, I enjoy the beautiful limestone formations. In the lower part, there are also two waterfalls. Normally, water would flow over the limestone here, but now only a small stream trickles down, and the waterfalls are mostly dry. Near the bottom, there are still a few limestone basins filled with water. It’s now six o’clock—the time we were supposed to be back at the bus. We hurry to the exit. I reach the bus about fifteen minutes late. As we drive off, it starts to rain. Aside from a brief shower earlier, it had stayed dry all afternoon. The rain turns into a bit of sleet. Fortunately, we are descending. In the dark, we arrive in Songpan. Emma, the owner of the guesthouse, cheerfully boards the bus. “Welcome in Songpan,” she says enthusiastically. She leads us down a small alley to the guesthouse. It looks cozy. In the room, it's a bit cramped. The space is so small it’s barely possible to open a travel bag. I decide to take out only what I need and place the bag in the corner. Outside, it starts to rain again—a heavy downpour. Although the historic old town of Songpan is tempting, I choose to eat at the guesthouse. Much easier—and dry too.