Oman > The hot springs of Oman

At eight o’clock, I leave the hotel. I drive east out of the city. From the bus, I take one last look at the Dubai skyline. I also watch in amazement the six-lane-wide traffic jam heading into the city on the opposite carriageway. Outside Dubai, the buildings gradually disappear, replaced by the desert landscape—large sand dunes dotted with surprisingly many green shrubs. It is clear that it rained heavily the day before my visit. Herds of camels watch me from the roadside.

Oman - The water in the hot springs in Ar Rustaq is 45C

After about an hour and a half, I reach the first border with Oman. There are no formalities here yet, as I re-enter Dubai a few kilometers further on. In Hatta, the last town before the border, the bus stops at a parking lot. Here I meet my Omani guide Aymen and the driver Walkhim. The luggage is transferred to a new bus. With this bus, we drive to the border. The formalities are completed in three steps: first, checking out of the United Arab Emirates; second, a random inspection of the luggage; and third, visiting Omani immigration. The last step takes the most time. While waiting for my stamp, I withdraw some Omani rials. The customs officer personally hands out the passports. When it turns out that the wrong date was stamped, all passports are quickly sent back for a new stamp. Shortly before 11:30, I enter Oman.

Oman - On the way to the village of Ar Rustaq in Oman

The landscape is very different from Dubai. No tall buildings remain. Most houses have only two floors, and there is plenty of space. Aymen explains that Omanis receive land from the government to build a house. At Saraya, it is time for lunch. Instead of the planned picnic, the bus stops at a restaurant. Lunch consists of meat with rice. In the afternoon, we continue along the coastline. Notably, there are many roundabouts, and traffic moves very smoothly. At one roundabout, we turn right toward Ar Rustaq, where the hot springs are located in the oasis. Among the locals, I soak my feet in the warm water. I am told the water is 45 degrees Celsius—just a bit too hot for me. As I walk through Rustaq, I am enthusiastically greeted by young people.

Oman - View of the village of Nakhal from Nakhal castle

They stop their car just to say hello. I even suspect they drove out of their way just for this. After Rustaq, we drive on to Naghel. Here, too, water flows from the mountains, but it is less hot. Several Omanis are enjoying the water—washing themselves or doing their laundry in the wide stream. Finally, I visit the castle of Naghel. Aymen called ahead to inform them we were on our way, so the castle stays open especially for us. The castle has been heavily restored, which diminishes its original character. I explore the castle via various stairs and passageways. From the tower, I have a beautiful view over the town of Naghel. As dusk falls, I return to the coastal road. The bright orange sun sinks behind the horizon. Walkhim skillfully avoids a traffic jam near a roundabout by taking the parallel lane. To get back onto the main road, he maneuvers the bus through a hedge onto the highway, then briefly drives back with the traffic to turn at the intersection. A creative solution. In the dark, I arrive at the Al Sawadi Beach Resort—a fine place to stay. In the evening, I have dinner outdoors by the swimming pool.