Indonesia > The Kelimutu Crater Lakes

Would we be able to fly to Ende today? Hopefully it works out. Breakfast is a bit unusual. In a large room, tables with chairs are set up like for a conference. The chairs are only on one side of the table. On the first row of tables, a simple buffet is prepared. It’s really nothing more than toast, jam, and eggs. A waitress helps me toast the bread in a small oven. When she later looks hopefully to see if I have enough, I take the slices with me. The room is decorated in a typical Chinese style. Nothing is beautiful, but everything is practical. The hotel has no reception desk. One of the breakfast tables serves as the check-in counter. Messy and chaotic are words that fit the situation. At eight o’clock we are again taken to the airport in shifts. It’s still very quiet there. Fortunately, the check-in counter for baggage drop-off is open. Yesterday we were explicitly asked to keep the baggage tags on the suitcases. This makes checking in go smoothly. Behind us appear the other stranded travelers who were also at the airport yesterday. After the hand luggage check, I order coffee and wait patiently. At least I find it positive that the flight is announced on the boards and without delay. A little after nine o’clock, a small propeller plane lands at the airport. This will probably be our flight to Ende. As soon as the passengers have disembarked, the call to board is made.

Indonesia - The propeller plane for the flight to Ende

The small plane with two propellers seats eighty passengers. I sit almost at the back. This is convenient because the stairs are at the back as well. Through the window, after takeoff, I see the beautiful coastline of Flores. The flight is too short for a beverage service. After half an hour, the descent already begins. A little later I step out at Ende airport. It is a small airport with only one baggage carousel. Harris is waiting with the bus in front of the airport building. The luggage must be loaded in the back rows.

Indonesia - The islands north of Labuan Bajo

A messy situation arises. Several porters start pulling the luggage to get it into the bus. There is no chance to hand over your suitcase yourself. Anton will probably sort this out with a tip. Because of the flight changes, we first drive eastwards from Ende to the Kelimutu volcano. It’s a ride of about two and a half hours. It’s not so much the distance but the winding mountain road. Sometimes Harris has to shift back to first gear to climb the uphill road. In the bends, he sometimes honks to warn oncoming traffic. The road isn’t really busy. Mostly many motorbikes pass by. Along the road, we pass houses and villages. Sometimes children wave at the bus. As we drive through the mountains, the weather turns cloudy. It doesn’t take long before a heavy rain shower breaks loose. Outside, everyone looks for shelter. I realize such a shower on the volcano hike could be intense. Just to be safe, I put my camera in a waterproof cover and my passport in a plastic bag. The higher we go, the cloudier and foggier it becomes. Visibility is sometimes only a few meters. The clouds between the trees are a beautiful sight, but not helpful for the view over the crater lakes. When we arrive at the parking lot, it is dry and much clearer. From here, it’s about a 45-minute walk along an uphill path to the crater lakes. The colors of the lakes vary over time, changing from red, green, turquoise, blue to black. This phenomenon is presumably caused by minerals from the surrounding rocks, but it can’t be fully explained. Markus is the local guide. In every national park, Stickman is not allowed to guide. However, Markus doesn’t speak a word of English and walks barefoot quickly ahead of us. He especially enjoys taking photos of us with our phones. Everywhere he sees a photo opportunity. When I reach the top after climbing a stone staircase with over three hundred steps, the view is completely clear.

Indonesia - The colorful crater lake of the Kelimutu volcano

I see the three crater lakes below me. The Kootainuamuri lake and the Alapolo lake have the beautiful turquoise and green colors. The third lake, Abutu, just looks like a deep water lake. It’s good that we were able to come here after all. It seems less bad to me that we are not here at sunrise. It was cloudy this morning anyway. But it is also good that it has become dry and clear. Back at the parking lot, we drink coffee. The local coffee has grounds that have to settle for a while. Not really my favorite. Meanwhile, two boys want to take photos and videos with me. I fib a bit on the video, saying the coffee tastes good. We drive back the same way by bus to Ende. The return trip is also winding through the mountains. Around half past six, we arrive in Ende. It has become dark. In town, countless stalls line the roads, selling food among other things. At the bank, I withdraw four million rupiah (about 250 euros). Since the maximum amount is two million, I withdraw twice. With an impressive stack of cash, I walk back to the bus. The hotel is somewhat outside the center. Nearby is a restaurant where we will eat. I choose chicken teriyaki with rice. It’s just as well that I have the hotel room to myself. The room is on the small side. I place my luggage on the second bed. If the room were used by two people, I wouldn’t know where to open my travel bag. In front of my room lies the pool. It’s a large pool, but it’s empty—there’s no water in it.