Madagascar > Ankarana National Park

I enter Ankarana National Park again for a long hike across the Tsingy. This time, I’m visiting the eastern side of the park. At seven o’clock, I drive with the minibus to the entrance. Bruno, the same guide from two days ago, leads the way into the park. At the back, a porter carries the lunch packs. Right away in the park, Bruno spots a large snake. The creature lies just beside the path. I estimate the snake to be at least two and a half meters long. It’s fascinating to see how it moves almost silently. Bruno is clearly an excellent spotter. He points out various insects and groups of makis in the trees. In a hollow in a tree, he shows a sportive lemur. This is a nocturnal animal. It sees little and mainly reacts to sound. As I leave the forest, I arrive at a rocky plateau. Bruno had warned that it can get very hot here. I find it quite manageable. I climb down into the valley over boulders. Suddenly, I hear noises from the other side—it’s two uniformed officers. They have specifically walked the path in the opposite direction to accompany me in the valley. It’s not entirely clear, but apparently there have been robberies targeting tourists here. Carefully, I ask if I may photograph them; they have no problem with it. I sometimes crawl through narrow passages and over large boulders. It’s a fun and beautiful route. At a cave, the path descends. Fortunately, I brought my flashlight, as it gets increasingly dark. In the middle of the cave, I really need the light. This should have been made clear beforehand. Bruno points out the stalactites with his flashlight. He shines on some kind of rock wasps in the cave. These can bite painfully. He warns me to be careful before I find any support. I go deeper and deeper into the rocks through narrow openings.

Madagascar - The sharp rocks in Ankarana National Park

To my surprise, there is an exit on the other side. I had expected to have to retrace my steps. I climb back up on the other side. The two officers with their guns follow me through the cave as well. Now I approach the Grand Tsingy area—a vast field with sharp rocky points. Sometimes I must pass through narrow gaps. I even have to remove my backpack to get through. Sideways, I can just squeeze by. Carefully, I support myself with my hands on the sharp rocks. Once at the top, I have a view over a large field of pointed rocks. A stunning sight. I cautiously walk over the sharp rock points. Luckily, there are stones placed here and there to protect my shoes. It’s now one o’clock, time for lunch. At a small hut, I have my lunch: a baguette and an omelet. Then Bruno brings out bananas and mangoes. He shows me how to cut a mango and then hands me the knife. Following his instructions, I cut the mango into pieces. Bruno is very enthusiastic. He comes from a local tribe. With his phone, he plays local music—without guitar, he emphasizes—and begins clapping along to the rhythm. The two officers fill in the space. Together, the three of them play different rhythms in unison. It’s fun to listen to.

Madagascar - During the walk we are accompanied by police on the remote paths

From the lunch spot, I cross a hanging bridge between the Tsingy rock formations. From there, I walk back into the forest. Bruno tells me that most animals are resting at this time, so I see few creatures. Suddenly, he pulls a small snake by its tail from the bushes. He shows me the fifty-centimeter-long animal. Once released, it speeds away. Further on, a sportive lemur is perched in a tree, more visible this time. I finish the hike via a dry riverbed. Bruno shows me a sinkhole. Water flows from both sides into this hole, then continues through an underground river to the Mozambique Channel about twenty kilometers away.

Madagascar - During the rainy season water flows through this hole underground to the sea

Now the riverbed is completely dry, but it must be a remarkable sight during the rainy season to see the water vanish into the ground. Just before the parking area, Bruno stops. A remarkable snake is in a tree. The three-meter-long snake clings to the trunk. “This snake is dangerous,” he says. It drops from the tree by its tail to impale its prey, then bites its prey in the face. From a distance, I try to take a photo. At half past two, I’m back at the camp. I take a cold shower and lie down on the bed. I quickly fall asleep. Other travelers had taken shorter hikes but still saw plenty of animals. Everyone enjoyed themselves in the park. In the evening, I go to my bungalow early. Last night, many fellow travelers were disturbed by music from a nearby site. Tonight, I hear the music again. To the sound of the music, I fall asleep.