Namibia > Etosha National Park

Namibia - The pool in the river at the Ngepi campsite

Thomas wakes us up at a quarter to six for the beautiful sunrise over the river. Fortunately, I only need to unzip the tent slightly. From my warm sleeping bag, I enjoy the sunrise above the river. Today we have to get up early anyway for a long drive to Etosha National Park. The morning routine of getting up, washing, packing, and having breakfast is getting faster and faster. Around half past eight, we leave Ngepi Camp. It’s always a bit tense whether the bus will manage the four-kilometer sandy track to the main road. The bus is much heavier than last night. With occasional extra gas, it handles well, and we reach the normal road without problems. First, we head toward Grootfontein, a large town where we can shop and withdraw cash. Grootfontein is over 550 kilometers away. Along the way, we stop at a gas station for a toilet break. The toilet is remarkably luxurious and clean (and only 1 Namibian dollar—about 11 euro cents!). We also stop at some roadside souvenir shops. The wood carvings are cheaper here, Cheryl says, but I don’t find them very appealing. I’m betting we’ll come across more beautiful ones later.

Namibia - Whether you want the salads not to be mixed

The route turns out to be longer than the stated 550 kilometers. We don’t arrive in Grootfontein until half past one. Cheryl warns us that Grootfontein is not known for its safety, so some alertness is necessary, especially when withdrawing money. Meanwhile, Thomas does his shopping. After that, we continue toward Etosha. To Thomas’s annoyance, the distance to Etosha, according to the Lonely Planet, is longer than his pre-obtained route description. Just outside Grootfontein, we stop for an African lunch along the way. After that, everyone uses the bus ride to take a nap. At five o’clock, we arrive at Etosha National Park. Just inside the park, we see the first impalas along the road. We twist and turn to get good photos. Thomas gestures toward the other cars, which assume we’ve spotted something special: “Ah, just impalas.” Thomas promises us hundreds more impalas and springboks. He explains that these animals are merely prey for the larger wildlife. At the campsite, we quickly set up the tents and then walk to the waterhole. Around sunset, animals come to drink at the waterhole. When we arrive, a few giraffes are wandering nearby—a beautiful sight with the setting sun in the background. After the giraffes move away, the scene is relatively empty. It’s now dark, and the waterhole is illuminated with three bright lights.

Namibia - A giraffe in Etosha National Park

Just when we’re about to give up hope, an elephant suddenly comes out of the treeline. The elephant walks right along the fence and begins eating and drinking just ten meters from us. It pays no attention to the dozens of camera flashes. During dinner at the tents, we see more wildlife. Several jackals roam around our campfire, eyeing our food. They even come within a meter of us, so we give them the leftovers. After dinner, with warm tea and a bottle of wine, we head back to the waterhole. But luck is not on our side. Apart from a stray springbok and a jackal, there is no more activity tonight.