Turkey > The Library of Ephesus

In the large and somewhat chilly breakfast room, a breakfast plate is set out per person. From this, we conclude that only seven people are staying at the hotel. The plate covered with plastic contains various kinds of cheese, sausage, jam, honey, olives, and an egg. Bread is in a basket. There is also coffee. When we look somewhat doubtfully at the instant coffee, we are asked if we would prefer filter coffee. Shortly afterward, two cups of coffee are served. Adriaan advised yesterday to walk to the historic old city of Ephesus. It is about a fifteen-minute walk outside the center, he said. This fifteen minutes turns out to have been a bit too optimistic. It is about 3.5 kilometers. We decide to follow his suggestion anyway. After breakfast, we walk along a cart track between orchards. The ancient city of Ephesus, or Efes in Turkish, was one of the flourishing metropolises of classical antiquity. The archaeological site is among the largest excavations of ancient Greek history. At the ticket office, we can choose between a ticket for Ephesus only or a combination ticket for the Terrace Houses museum and the Basilica of St. John. Because we also want to visit the basilica later, we choose the combination. In front of the entrance, an older man addresses us in Dutch, asking if we want a guided tour.

Turkey - The facade of the library of Ephesus

We decline, trusting our own travel guide. At the model of the Efes complex, we read the explanation of each building in the guidebook. This gives a good overview of the complex. We start our route at the small theater, a round stone-built arena. We pass the remains of the Gate of Hercules. Via the colonnaded street, the road runs downward. We look out over the library and the agora, the former central square of the city of Efes. This square used to be by the sea, but nowadays the water starts several kilometers away. Along the road stand various temples. The Temple of Hadrian is one of the most beautiful. Especially the figures in the marble canopy are well preserved. In 1970, the Library of Celsus was renovated. The two-story-high façade had been destroyed by earthquakes. Now it gives an impression of the splendor of antiquity.

Turkey - The floors of the old houses have partly been found

This building, originally from 114 AD, is the most beautiful structure in Ephesus. Still, the large theater is impressive. The big semi-circular arena once held 25,000 spectators. We end our visit with the Terrace Houses museum. Under a canopy, the houses have been excavated and restored. Especially the mosaic floors and wall paintings have been preserved. Via glass platforms, we can view the excavations from all sides. This is a nice addition to our visit to Ephesus. After a drink on a terrace, we leave Ephesus. We walk back to Selçuk, taking a different route through the fields to the Temple of Artemis. This temple was built in the second century. Like the Temple of Artemis yesterday in Aphrodisias, this temple was constructed with Corinthian columns supporting the roof. From the debris, one pillar has been re-erected. Nothing more remains of the temple. Right on top of the pillar, a stork has built its nest. Behind the temple complex lies the Basilica of St.

Turkey - The prayer room in the Isa Bey Mosque

John. The apostle is said to have died at this spot. We follow the signs to the church. When we think we are entering the church, we actually step through the gate into the Isa Bey mosque. We are welcomed in German in the courtyard. The mosque dates from the fourteenth century and is one of the oldest mosques in Turkey. The imam himself speaks Dutch. He takes over the conversation. He tells us he lived in Delft for four years. “Have you read the Quran?” he asks. When we answer no, he takes a Dutch version of the holy book and gives it to us as a gift. The Quran answers all questions and problems of the world, he continues enthusiastically. The basilica turns out to be a little further on. From the remains of the church, we have a view over the valley. We see exactly where we have walked today. The apostle John wrote his gospel at this place. He is also said to have died here. A basilica was later built over his tomb. Behind the basilica lies the fortress. This castle was built in the sixth century. The Byzantine citadel sits atop Ayasoluk Hill. The castle is also included in the same ticket as the basilica.

Turkey - The Byzantine citadel on top of Ayasoluk hill

We follow the path and enter through the gate. From the battlements, one could keep watch over the entire surroundings. It is now half past three. We descend again to Selçuk. We end up exactly in the little street where we ate yesterday. In a nearby restaurant, we order some food and have a beer. Meanwhile, we watch the people passing by. We postpone plans to visit the village of Sirince until tomorrow. For today, it’s enough. In the evening, we walk into the center again. But not before ordering tea opposite our hotel in a typical Turkish café. Men play games with each other here. They pay little attention to us. Opposite the baklava shop from yesterday is a cozy terrace. We order some typical Turkish dishes and an Efes beer. In a café next door, we end the evening with a cappuccino. To our surprise, the cappuccino with instant coffee tastes good too.