Spain > Cave dwellings of Granada

Today we have a free day in Granada. Jasper has suggested visiting the cave dwelling museum in the Sacromonte district. Since the museum doesn’t open until ten o’clock, I can take it easy. At half past eight, I join the breakfast buffet. Jasper plans to take taxis to the museum, but I decide to walk with two fellow travelers. It’s quite a long walk, as the museum is on the other side of the city, in the hills around the Alhambra. We first walk toward the cathedral and from there continue through the Albaicín district. Through narrow streets, we climb higher and higher—sometimes along steep roads, sometimes via stairways. We reach the San Nicolás Church, from where there is a beautiful view over the city and the Alhambra fortress. Unfortunately, from there we first have to descend a bit before climbing the next hill again. After about fifty minutes, we arrive at the museum. The taxi group hasn’t arrived yet, so we order coffee and wait for them.

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Cave dwellings were already used as shelters in prehistoric times, but after the Inquisition in 1492 they became homes for expelled Muslims. They remained inhabited until 1963. In the museum complex, eleven cave houses have been restored. Informational panels explain how people used to live and how the homes were furnished. There is also attention given to other cave dwellings around the world. Around noon, we walk back to the city center, mostly downhill. We arrive at Plaza Nueva. In a side street, we find a cozy restaurant and order the Menu del Día—a three-course meal. In the afternoon, we decide to visit an old Islamic bathhouse from the 13th century. When we arrive at El Bañuelo, we learn that access is only possible with a combination ticket, which allows entry to four locations. It seems a bit odd that our passport numbers have to be registered for such a simple ticket. We explore the old bathhouse and walk through its various rooms. A second location is in the same street, where we find the remains of a former hospital, El Maristán. Excavations are still ongoing on part of the site.

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The first section has been restored in a very modern way, which takes away some of its authenticity. The third destination is a few streets further on: Casa Horno del Oro. Upon entering, we are told that the exhibition is still being set up. The two-story house with a courtyard is otherwise completely empty. The intention is to display historical objects from the Alhambra here in the future, which would make it more interesting. We decide to skip the fourth and final location, as it is situated high up in the Albaicín district. Instead, we walk back to the hotel. In the evening, we have dinner at the restaurant across from the hotel. Although it only opens at eight o’clock, all tables are occupied within fifteen minutes. Fortunately, we have a table as well. I order a Caesar salad, flamenquín, and fries.