Travelogue The Historic Battle Around Ypres

December 1719 2021 (3 days)


Belgium > A weekend in Ypres

Dag 1 - Friday, 17 December 2021

The idea to take a weekend trip actually came up just last week. “Shall we go for a weekend to Belgium?” “Yeah, why not?” A week later, we’re driving southwest toward Belgium. Just near the French border lies the town of Ypres. The region around Ypres was the scene of heavy fighting during the First World War between German troops and the Allies. Just after seven in the evening, we drive through the Lille Gate into the center of Ypres. Our Bed and Breakfast is within walking distance of the Grote Markt (Main Square). Right in front of the door, a parking spot is free. We can leave the car here for free until tomorrow morning. Paid parking applies here from tomorrow. Tomorrow morning, we’ll move the car to a parking lot outside the fortress walls. Using the access code we received, we open the front door. The owner comes walking up to welcome us. Enthusiastically, he shows us the room and casually shares tips about the city. He also gives us some advice on where to eat. We put our luggage in the room and walk into the center. In the dark, the streets look deserted. We cut through to Lille Street, which is much livelier. The atmospheric Christmas lights give the street a cozy appearance. After a few minutes, we arrive at the Grote Markt. Music blasts from a covered ice rink. Under a tent roof, several people skate their laps. Behind the skating tent stands the Cloth Hall. This impressive Gothic building was used for trading and storing cloth as far back as the Middle Ages. The building dates from 1304. Unfortunately, the Belfry tower is covered in scaffolding. During the war years of 1914–1918, the building was practically completely destroyed, just like the rest of Ypres city center. The reconstruction took years. Only in 1967 was the entire city rebuilt in its original state. Around the Grote Markt, there are several restaurants. We choose ’t Klein Stadhuis, a restaurant next to the Cloth Hall. In the 14th century, ’t Klein Stadhuis already served as a combined police station and town hall. Inside, all tables are reserved. We can pick a spot on the covered terrace.

Belgium - The ice rink in front of the Cloth Hall in Ypres

Heaters hang above the tables. This seems like a great option. With a glass of wine and a Belgian beer, we enjoy our meal. After dinner, we take a walk through the city. It’s chilly. Soon we arrive at the Menin Gate. The walls of this enormous arch bear the names of more than 54,000 soldiers who died during the First World War. They are still commemorated here every evening. At eight o’clock, the Last Post sounds. We’re too late for it tonight, but we promise ourselves to come back tomorrow for this ceremony. Through the Grote Markt, we wander through the streets until we’re back at our lodging. In the room, we end the evening with a glass of wine.

Stone stallsThe stone stalls of the Fish Market of Ypres
Lille GateThe city gate in the evening
Saint Martins CathedralThe impressive cathedral of Ypres
Tyne Cot CemeteryThe cemetery is the largest Commonwealth cemetery on the mainland