Jordan > Archaeological site Jerash

Today we visit Jerash. We leave Madaba heading toward Amman. Jerash lies about an hour and a half north of Amman. Before going to Jerash, we first visit Ajlun Castle. Along the way, I watch Jordanian life on the streets. The estimated travel time of an hour and a half proves to be a bit optimistic. After an hour and a half, we can see the castle in the distance, but we still need to cross the valley. Around eleven o’clock, we arrive at the castle. The last steep section is covered in an open jeep. Ajlun Castle is an important defensive structure built to protect trade routes from the 12th to the 15th century. The castle is part of a series of forts, all within a day’s ride of each other. The base of the castle was constructed in 1184. Outside the entrance stands a coffee vendor. From the steaming pot comes a very sweet and delicious cup of coffee. Afterwards, we enter the castle. It has been thoroughly renovated, which has somewhat diminished its old character. The floors are leveled with stone, and floor lamps have been installed throughout. Nevertheless, the castle has many small stairs, rooms, and viewpoints, making it fun to explore.

Jordan - The Oval Plaza in Jerash

On the roof, the wind is strong. Mohammed points out that from here, you can even see Syria. We drive a short distance back toward Jerash. At Hadrian’s Gate, we enter the ancient city. Jerash is considered one of the most important Greco-Roman-Byzantine cities in the Middle East. Today it is a large archaeological site. The triumphal arch of Hadrian was built in honor of Emperor Hadrian’s visit in 129 CE. Following the old hippodrome, we arrive at a restaurant for lunch around midday. After lunch, we walk into the heart of Jerash with Mohammed. He guides us through the vaults of the old temples, where a model shows what the site would have looked like in the past. This gives a clear impression of the complex, and when I step outside again, I can immediately recognize the remnants depicted in the model. From the Temple of Zeus, we walk to the South Theatre, a semi-circular arena where performances were once held.

Jordan - The Colonnaded Street in Jerash

The acoustics are remarkable. Standing exactly in the center, you can hear the echo return; a single step to the side makes it disappear—a remarkable sensation. From the top row, I have a beautiful view of the theater, and when I turn around, also of the ancient city of Jerash—a perfect photo opportunity. We continue toward the Temple of Artemis, while Mohammed explains the history of the buildings. Around 700 CE, Jerash was struck by a severe earthquake and largely buried under sand. The city was only rediscovered in the 19th century. At the Temple of Artemis, it is evident how deeply the city was buried. The towering columns barely rise above the sand, although the temple has now been fully excavated. Inside, you can see the columns sway in the wind; a teaspoon has been inserted in the base of a column to demonstrate the movement. Even when placing your finger in the gap, you can feel the stones shift. Through the stairs of the Propylaeum, we reach the Colonnaded Street, the main street of ancient Jerash, lined with columns on both sides. This colonnade runs from the South Gate to the North Gate. With the sun lowering, it creates a stunning shadow effect. We complete the walk via the Cathedral and Macellum, arriving at the Oval Plaza, a large open space surrounded by columns that served as the city’s central square. After two hours, we return to the entrance gate. The bus takes us back to Madaba in about an hour and a half. On the way, we pause briefly to photograph the beautiful sunset. In the evening, we dine at a small restaurant in the city. As we step outside to walk back to our hotel, it is lightly raining.