Lebanon > The Lebanese Cedar Trees

The alarm goes off early. Today I have to pack my suitcase again. We are traveling to Byblos today, where I will also sleep tonight. The breakfast buffet has just opened when I arrive. I quickly put together some tasty things. After breakfast, I check out of my room and take my luggage to the bus. We have a different driver today. Rami explains that Allah needs to be in Beirut for paperwork. The new driver seems like a fine replacement to me. He drives the bus through the streets of Beirut. I see where I walked yesterday. Once we reach the highway, it really becomes apparent that it’s Monday morning. Traffic heading into the city is jam-packed in four lanes for kilometers. Luckily, we are driving in the opposite direction. We soon pass Harissa and the Jeita Grottoes. We were originally supposed to visit these sites on the way to Byblos, but the cable car is closed on Mondays. That’s why we are heading to Tripoli today instead. It’s a bit further from Beirut. After about forty kilometers, we enter Byblos. The hotel is located along the main road. The luggage is quickly unloaded. I’m not exactly sure why, but it’s probably because less weight is better in the mountains. We quickly continue on to Tripoli. Tripoli is the country’s second-largest city and lies in the north on the coast. The city is famous for its medieval citadel, Ottoman bazaars, and old mosques. In the twelfth century, Crusaders also landed here. They built the largest fortress from that period here. The entrance gate alone has four doors in a row for defense. The fortress has been destroyed and rebuilt several times since its creation, the last time by the Ottomans. From the outside, the difference in the structure of the walls is clearly visible. Inside, there are several courtyards, all connected by small staircases. It’s fun to wander through the castle. From the highest platform, you can see the city of Tripoli—buildings everywhere. The fortress is completely surrounded by the city. Among these buildings lies the souk of Tripoli. As soon as we leave the fortress, we walk into the shopping streets.

Lebanon - Tripoli has the largest crusader fortress

Some of the streets are covered, providing shade on hot days. Rami takes us to the historic hammam. The bathhouse is still in use. Since there are currently no customers, we are allowed to have a look. I feel a bit awkward walking into the damp bathing area with my shoes on, but the young man guiding us gestures that it’s fine. The bathhouse is still traditionally set up. It’s nice to have a quick look inside. Through the narrow streets, we pass countless stalls. I estimate there are hardly any tourists here—everything for sale seems aimed at the local population. At a small bakery, I ask if I can buy two pieces of sweet cake. The vendor hands me a piece for free. This is Arab hospitality. I thank the man warmly. Further on, I take a look at the caravanserai. The old trading post is now filled with small shops. An elderly couple watches us with interest. I show them some photos of the Netherlands. They study the pictures attentively. At the central square of Tripoli, there’s a coffee vendor. Many of my fellow travelers order coffee, but I pass—Arab coffee is too strong for me. On the corner of the square stands the Sultan AbdulHamid Clock Tower, a 35-meter-high Ottoman clock tower dating from the early 20th century. Near the tower is another street vendor. I buy a flatbread with cheese from him. The sandwich is briefly grilled. It tastes great, but it’s quite large. An older man passing by gestures for some food and looks surprised when I hand him a large piece of bread. He walks off delighted. Our last stop in Tripoli is the traditional Lebanese sweets shop Hallab 1881, internationally famous for its delicious baklava. I only see large packages on display. “Can I also try just a few pieces?” I ask. “Just walk to the back,” I’m told, “then you can point them out.” In the kitchen, where the baklava is made, I point to a few pieces. Then I have to step back out to pay at the counter first.

Lebanon - The colorful bathhouse is still in use

Delicious. The driver has brought the bus to this location. Under the watchful eyes of schoolchildren from the nearby school, I get in. Outside Tripoli, we drive into the mountains. We quickly gain altitude in the Qadisha Valley, which means “Holy Valley.” The valley was carved out by the Kadisha River. Along its mountainsides are several historic monasteries, some barely accessible, allowing monks to live in complete seclusion. We visit the Saint Anthony Monastery, located at the back of the valley. Monks no longer live there. In a small museum, an old printing press is on display. Behind the museum lies the small church, a chapel carved into the rock, and the priests’ quarters. The Qadisha Valley and its monasteries are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. After visiting the monastery, we climb higher into the mountains. The road winds upward with hairpin bends. We quickly pass the 1,000-meter mark. The view of the valley below is stunning. Higher and higher we go. At this altitude, there are still a few villages. Eventually, we reach over 2,000 meters at the Cedars of God, a small forest with cedar trees, some more than a thousand years old. The cedar is Lebanon’s national tree and is also depicted on the flag. In the past, it grew in many more places in the country. Many trees were cut down in ancient times for their wood. Nowadays, young trees are replanted to increase the cedar population in Lebanon. Rami explains that a new tree only appears above ground after ten years. The split trees are the oldest, he continues. These trees are at least 900 years old. In the late afternoon, we drive back to Byblos. On the way, we see more monasteries clinging to the mountainsides of the Qadisha Valley. The bus stops in front of the hotel in Byblos.

Lebanon - The cedar trees can live up to a thousand years old

Room keys are handed out. When all the keys have been distributed, I still don’t have a room. “You have a shared room,” the receptionist says. “Your roommate already has the key.” When I ask who I’m sharing with, it turns out to be a female fellow traveler. That doesn’t seem right. After some awkward glances, I’m eventually given my own key—Room 308. There’s no water in the room. Rami mentioned the tap water here is drinkable. I doubt it and don’t want to take the risk. I go looking for a supermarket. I turn left out of the hotel and around the corner. I see eateries everywhere, but no shop. At the next corner, I decide to ask someone. “Do you mean something like that?” they say, pointing behind me at a shop. I’m standing right in front of it. I feel a bit embarrassed about my question, but they say I shouldn’t. They laugh about it. With two bottles of water and a bag of chips, I walk back. The receptionist holds the door open. “If you’d walked the other way, you’d have found a big supermarket nearby,” he says with a laugh. A good tip for next time. At eight o’clock, I walk into Byblos with a small group. The town center is pleasantly busy. The stalls of the souk are atmospherically lit. On the other side of the souk is a nice restaurant. Like so many places, the menu is only available via QR code. The restaurant has no Wi-Fi. Now what? The waitress gives me her phone so I can check the menu. The list is a bit limited, and it’s unclear what the different pizzas include. The explanation doesn’t make it much clearer. The main choice seems to be: with or without ham. I order a Lebanese pizza with ham. I’ll let it surprise me. We also order a bottle of wine. The pizza turns out to be a fine choice. We end the evening with a drink on the terrace in the souk. It’s quiet here now. We’re the only ones on the terrace. The place will probably close as soon as we leave.