Mexico > Wandering Through Campeche

The hotel is housed in an old colonial building in the historic city of Campeche. The sound of the terraces lasted deep into the night. We didn’t notice it much in our room, but other travelers were more disturbed. The rooms are arranged around a courtyard. On the ground floor, the breakfast buffet is set up. I receive a plate with toast, egg, fruit, and beans. Today we have a free day to explore Campeche. The town was founded by the Spaniards, which is clearly visible in its grid-like street plan. In the seventeenth century, Campeche was frequently attacked by pirates because of its strategic location. In 1663, the pirates united and successfully attacked the city together. After the plundering, the Spaniards decided to strengthen the city with a high and wide city wall. Campeche became one of the best-defended cities in the region. With some fellow travelers, I walk into the town. On the Plaza de la Independencia stands the Cathedral de la Conception. Besides two identical bell towers, the cathedral has a dome supported by flying buttresses. Just as we stand in front of the church, a procession arrives. Music is played and singing takes place on a pickup truck. Behind it, about a hundred people walk holding white balloons and banners. They enter the church. A bystander explains this is a youth gathering. Next to the altar stands a Black Christ on the cross. The Black Christ is a wooden statue of Jesus on the cross, famous for its dark color and considered a powerful symbol of miracles and protection. This is a replica. The original is located in the Iglesia de San Román church in Campeche.

Mexico - Terraces are being set up again in Calle 59 of Campeche

Around the square are colorful buildings with covered galleries for pedestrians. All the houses in Campeche are painted in cheerful colors. The combination of different colors makes the streets lively. Calle 59 is the main street from the Puerta de Mar by the sea to the Puerta de Tierra on the other side of the walled city center. Restaurant owners are just setting out their chairs and tables. With the city’s expansion, part of the city wall was demolished. Fortunately, at the Puerta de Tierra there is still the option to walk a section of the old city wall. From the fortification wall, we see the market, the bus station, and the colorful houses of the city. To get down again, we have to ring the large bell hanging above the Puerta de Tierra. Someone rushes over to open the door for us. In a small café, we order something to drink. In the display case lie small cakes. I order a cookie with caramel with my coffee. We continue wandering through the center, occasionally turning left or right down side streets. Unfortunately, the Iglesia de San Roque y San Francisquito is closed. Still, this prayer house is beautiful from the outside. Via the modern, UFO-like Poder Legislativo del Estado building, we reach the boulevard. The water of the Bay of Mexico lies calm. Apart from a few fishermen, there are hardly any people on the boulevard. The boulevard is reinforced with large rocks.

Mexico - Fortunately, part of the city wall in Campeche has been preserved

Nowhere is there easy access to the sea water to swim, for example. Near the fishing boats sit groups of pelicans. They hope to catch some scraps from the rejected catch. They all sit together on a half-sunken boat in the water. We are on our way to the Fuerte de San Miguel. This fort is about an hour’s walk south of the center. Halfway there, we stop at a restaurant along the boulevard to have a drink. With a beer in hand, we look out over the water. Every now and then, a pelican dives into the sea to catch a fish. When we ask further on for the route to the fort, we are told it’s still about twenty minutes’ walk. This seems a bit much for 750 meters according to Google Maps. The lady who helped us earlier soon appears in her car along the route to tell us there is also a shortcut. Did she drive here especially for us? How kind. We take the stairs and, after a steep climb, arrive at the fort. The Archaeological Museum of the Maya is housed in the fort. Some artifacts from the Maya period are displayed, the different building styles of the Maya temples are explained, and the way the Maya applied body modifications is told.

Mexico - A Maya museum is located in the Fuerte de San Miguel

For young children, their skull was pulled backward. A sloping forehead was considered the ideal of beauty. Teeth were also adorned with gemstones. Besides the collection, the fort itself is also worth visiting. We have walked enough for today. We take a taxi back to the center. From the Puerta de Mar, we walk along Calle 59 again, the pedestrian area full of terraces and restaurants. We settle on one of the terraces for a drink. It is now half past three. We order a small snack to go with it. Tonight, we will eat again. At the end of the afternoon, I stroll through the town to do some shopping for the coming days. The sun has just set, and the cathedral is beautifully lit. A perfect moment to take some photos. In the evening, we eat in a small group on Calle 59. When we want to combine tables, the waitress explains that the tables on the left and right do not belong to the same restaurant. Fortunately, there is enough space for us on one side of the street. I choose a typical Mexican dish from the menu, although I’m not exactly sure what I ordered. Soon, I find myself with melted cheese, bacon, meat, and tortillas. It tastes pretty good, but the cheese is rich.

Mexico - The Cathedral de la Conception of Campeche