Italy > The Sistine Chapel

I slept reasonably well last night. Because of all the new impressions of Rome, it took me a bit longer to fall asleep. I take a shower, get dressed, and go to the breakfast room. Breakfast is served between 7:00 and 9:00 a.m. Although I arrive just a few minutes after seven, the whole place is already full. It turns out a large group is leaving early, so the buffet had been opened earlier for them. It quickly becomes quieter. This morning, we’re going to visit the Vatican Museums. We have a strict time slot for this; we need to be at the museum by 8:30 a.m. We take the metro to get there, which gives Sandra the opportunity to buy extra public transport tickets on the way. Last night she wasn’t able to do this. She comes back outside with a large stack of tickets—ten for everyone. The Cornelia metro station is deep underground. After four escalators, I reach the platform. The metro is already approaching. We ride for three stops to Cipro. While we walk to the museum, Sandra calls the local guide. Sandra isn’t authorized to guide inside the museum. Eline arrives. She’s Dutch and has been living in Italy for 19 years. She welcomes us to the Vatican Museums. We are clearly not alone—it’s extremely busy at the entrance. Dozens of groups are lined up to go inside. Every guide uses a telescopic stick to show their group the way. Eline also uses a recognizable marker, which is definitely not a luxury here. The Vatican Museums receive as many as 30,000 visitors a day. Inside, we receive a new audio system—one provided by the museum itself. Eline first takes us to the courtyard. Since she’s not allowed to explain anything inside the Sistine Chapel, she tells us about Michelangelo’s Last Judgment here, using an illustration. She also points out some details from the ceiling paintings. In the museum, we walk through the sculpture gallery, making a small detour to the Braccio Nuovo (new wing).

Italy - The statue from the first century BC has been restored

Here stands the statue of Emperor Augustus from around the beginning of the first century. Eline shows us how it must have looked in full color back in the day. At the Statue of the Nile from the first century BC, it’s clear how the sculpture has been restored. We enter the former Papal apartments. Through the octagonal courtyard, we reach the Sala Rotonda (Round Hall). The ceiling here resembles that of the Pantheon. Alongside gilded bronze statues, the “bathtub of Emperor Nero” stands in the center—a massive red porphyry basin with a circumference of no less than 13 meters. I follow Eline and the flow of visitors into the corridors where popes once walked. One hallway is lined with old tapestries; the next features maps of the independent regions that make up modern-day Italy. Fortunately, it’s a one-way route—otherwise everything would grind to a halt. The route leads to the Sistine Chapel. Eline warns us not to take the wrong exit—if you leave through the wrong door, you end up outside and can’t come back. The chapel was built in 1473 on the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. His successor, Pope Julius II, commissioned Michelangelo to paint the frescoes and ceiling, a task that took him four years. Today, the Sistine Chapel is mainly known as the place where a new pope is elected.

Italy - The papal gallery depicting the independent regions of Italy

A pope must receive two-thirds of the votes. When a new pope has been chosen, white smoke rises from the chapel’s chimney. The chimney isn’t there now—it is installed only for the conclave. In the chapel, everyone must be silent. Ironically, loudspeakers remind visitors to keep quiet. Michelangelo painted the Last Judgment behind the altar. After his death, the work was “covered up” by the painter da Volterra, who found it too revealing. This earned him the nickname Il Braghettone (“the breeches painter”). We don’t leave through the main exit but return into the museum. It’s much quieter here, as most tours end at the chapel. Eline can now show us a few more beautiful rooms. We end up at the restaurant. Time for a bite—I order a sandwich and a Coke. After lunch, we visit the papal vehicles: carriages, early Ford T’s, armored Mercedes, and the popemobile. Finally, we visit the Pinacoteca, which houses paintings by the great Italian masters. The three paintings by Raphael are the highlight. We descend the spiral staircase to the museum exit, where I thank Eline for her enthusiastic and thorough explanations. We take public transport to the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna (National Gallery of Modern Art). The building itself is impressive. We’ve seen enough museums for one day. Across from the gallery, we climb the steps into the Villa Borghese park.

Italy - The famous Spanish Steps at the foot of the Trinit dei Monti Church

The shade of the trees is wonderfully cool. A few people are rowing on the pond. I order a Coke and sit in the shade, enjoying the light breeze. On the other side of the park, we have a view over the city center, looking out onto Piazza del Popolo, where the northern city gate once stood. In the square stands the oldest obelisk in Rome. Sandra warns us that the cafés here are the most expensive in the city. At the edge of the park stands the Trinità dei Monti church. While my fellow travelers refill their water bottles at a fountain, I quickly step inside. To the right of the entrance hangs a painting by da Volterra—the “breeches painter.” Unfortunately, it hangs in the dark, and I only get a brief glimpse. I don’t want to keep the group waiting. In front of the church are the Spanish Steps—a baroque staircase with terraces and fountains. In the 18th century, the Spanish Embassy was located at the base, which gave the steps their informal name. In fact, the church and steps were financed by the French monarchy. The boat-shaped fountain from 1629 at the base made negative headlines a few years ago when Dutch football fans caused damage to it. A few streets away lies the famous Trevi Fountain, built in 1732 by order of Pope Clement XII. At 22 meters wide, it is the largest fountain in Rome and attracts thousands of tourists. The area around the water is crowded with people taking pictures of the cascading water. Many toss coins over their shoulders into the fountain—according to legend, this ensures they will return to Rome.

Italy - It is busy around the 22meter wide Trevi Fountain

Millions of euros are collected this way each year. By late afternoon, we head toward Piazza della Repubblica. The road goes uphill—not easy in this heat. In Via del Quirinale, we pass several remarkable churches. Although everyone is tired, Sandra convinces us it’s worth going inside. The first is the baroque Sant'Andrea al Quirinale Jesuit seminary, designed by Bernini in 1658. On the other side of a small park lies the San Carlino church, built around the same time by Borromini. Despite differences in style, both churches have much in common. Finally, we visit the Chiesa di San Bernardo near Piazza della Repubblica. This church is the “little brother” of the Pantheon. Since two weeks ago, the Pantheon has started charging admission, and it’s not yet possible to book group tickets for it. Tomorrow, we’ll therefore only view it from the outside. Although much smaller, the Chiesa di San Bernardo has a similar shape to the Pantheon. At Piazza della Repubblica, we sit under the arcades at a terrace. I quickly order a drink and choose a nice meal—much needed by now. After dinner, we take the metro back to the hotel. In a small shop, I buy something to drink and enjoy it in the hotel garden.