Italy > The Colosseum Amphitheatre

At breakfast, it’s much quieter. Apart from a few other guests, the breakfast room is filled with our travel group. Sandra wanted to leave a little earlier today than originally planned. That way, we can take it easier, she emphasizes. It’s going to be another warm day in Rome. The authorities have even issued a red alert and advise people not to walk in the sun during the afternoon. One of our fellow travelers has lost her wallet. She’s convinced it was in her bag — at least, yesterday. Although it seems unlikely that someone could have taken it unnoticed, the wallet must have been stolen near the Trevi Fountain. Just to be sure, she checks her room again. Without success. She calls her family in the Netherlands to have her bank cards blocked. Luckily, she still has her passport. We quickly head for the bus. The bus pulls away right in front of us. Not a big problem — they run every few minutes. There’s no set timetable available, as the heavy traffic makes it impossible to guarantee punctual arrivals. After a few minutes, the next bus arrives. There’s enough space for the whole group. At Via Paola, the last stop, we get off. It’s already starting to feel familiar. The day before yesterday, we walked towards the river from this stop, but now we head the other way. We immediately find ourselves in front of the San Giovanni dei Fiorentini church. This Baroque church was built in the 16th century and later expanded. Its design served as an inspiration for St. Peter’s Basilica. I take a look inside. The church, belonging to the Florentine community, is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. We wander through the streets of the Parione and Regola districts. Several popes had palaces built in this neighborhood. The Palazzo Farnese now houses the French Embassy. Opposite it is the Palazzo Fusconi Pighini. We take a look at the courtyard, where it’s easy to see that the staircase is located on the outside of the building. At Campo de’ Fiori square, there’s a lively market with many fruit and vegetable stalls.

Italy - Piazza Navona dates back to the first century

We continue to Piazza Navona — an elegant, elongated square dating back to the 1st century AD. While Sandra explains the fountains, I quickly slip into the beautiful Sant’Agnese in Agone church. Built in 1652, it adjoins a papal palace, allowing the pope to once walk directly to the church. The façade was designed by Baroque architect Borromini. The Baroque interior is stunning. In a side street, we find a church dedicated to Pope Adrian VI — the only Dutch pope in history. The Santa Maria dell’Anima is perhaps even more beautiful inside than Sant’Agnese. It’s a so-called hall church, where the side aisles are the same height as the nave. A short discussion follows on where to take a coffee break — Piazza Navona or the Pantheon. Most choose the Pantheon. Built as a pagan temple in the 2nd century AD, it was converted into a church in the 7th century. Since a few days ago, tickets are required for entry. Last night, I managed to get one for the 18:00 timeslot. At the Pantheon, a long line has formed for visitors without reservations — too long for our group. Sandra walks with me to the much shorter reserved line and asks if I can enter now. My ticket is scanned, and a green check appears. I’m allowed in. Other travelers take the opportunity to use the restroom. The Pantheon’s massive dome was the largest in the world for a long time. At its center is the oculus, an opening through which sunlight streams into the church. The bright sunlight floods the space. I finish just in time to hear through my earpiece that the group wants to move on. I quickly rejoin them. Just behind the Pantheon is the Church of Minerva — despite the name, Catherine of Siena is buried here, minus her head, which rests in San Domenico in Siena. We leave through the back and cross to Piazza Venezia.

Italy - The Pantheon was originally an ancient temple from the 2nd century AD

I try to stay in the shade as much as possible; with 34°C in the shade, it’s hot. In the coming days, it will get even hotter — 43°C is forecast for Tuesday. I’m not too sorry that I’ll be back in the Netherlands by then. Through the gardens of Palazzo Venezia, we arrive at Piazza Venezia. In the middle stands the massive Victor Emmanuel II Monument, built in honor of the first king of unified Italy in 1861. Italians still call him Padre della Patria (“Father of the Fatherland”). We walk around the huge monument, passing Roman ruins. In the distance, I spot the Colosseum. Before visiting the ancient amphitheater, we stop for something to eat and drink at a terrace. The cacio e pepe pasta tastes fine, but the service is pushy — once we finish, we must either order dessert or pay, which feels uncomfortable. With time to spare, I walk to the Colosseum. Metro construction works block part of the view, so I cross the street to admire it from the other side. What a magnificent sight. At 1:30 PM, we meet the group for our reserved timeslot. Long lines wait outside, but our entry time is strict. Sandra can’t guide us inside, so Simone, an Italian guide who speaks German, takes over. She promises to speak slowly. With enthusiasm, she tells us how the Colosseum — the largest Roman amphitheater — was completed in 80 AD. She chooses shady spots for her explanations. It’s hard to imagine that over 75,000 spectators once filled the arena. Beneath it, wild animals were kept and hoisted up via ingenious lifts. From the second tier, the Colosseum’s scale is breathtaking. I descend the stairs and follow Simone through the old stands toward the Roman Forum — once the political, legal, religious, and commercial heart of Rome. The first settlements here date back to the 10th century BC. We skip the walk up Palatine Hill. At 3:30 PM, we reach the Forum’s exit. The alternative walk to St. John Lateran is abandoned — the heat has drained everyone’s energy. Most of the group heads back to the hotel, some already dreaming of a swim.

Italy - The Colosseum formerly held 75000 spectators

I decide to stay in the city, but ride with them as far as the river Tiber. I cross the Bridge of Angels and arrive at Castel Sant’Angelo. The line is short — under five minutes, thankfully, since it’s in full sun against the fortress wall. Built in the 2nd century as Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, it was later converted into a fortress. Pope Pius II built a chapel here in honor of the Archangel Michael. I follow the spiraling, gently sloping ramp inside — cool between the thick walls. On the first level are the tombs of Hadrian and his family. On the second level begins the papal palace, with beautifully decorated rooms. Outside, there’s a small café. Though drinks are surely pricey — everything must be carried up — I order a beer. It’s a delightful spot to pause. I climb narrow stairs to the rooftop terrace, with panoramic views over Rome. The dome of St. Peter’s is unfortunately backlit, but the city is full of beauty — the Victor Emmanuel II Monument towers over the rooftops. I finish in the Sala Paolina, once a chapel, transformed by Pope Paul III into a lavish reception room. When I step outside, it’s exactly six o’clock and I hear St. Peter’s bells ring. I follow the Tiber toward Trastevere, a neighborhood recommended for its small, cozy restaurants. The route there isn’t promising — drab buildings, closed shutters, graffiti. But passing under the Porta Settimiana, the atmosphere changes instantly: charming streets, lively terraces. I find a table outside. Waiter Alessio is delighted that I’m from the Netherlands and quickly brings me a beer. I order a pizza diavola with spicy salami — “diavola” means “devil” in Italian. A great choice. When asked about dessert, I request a cappuccino. Alessio chuckles — cappuccino is for mornings, he explains, but of course, he’ll bring it if I like. By 8 PM, I walk back to Via Paola, where I started this morning. Bus 98 is ready to go, and twenty minutes later, I’m back at the Georgius VII stop. At the hotel terrace, I meet fellow travelers, and together, we enjoy one last drink.

Italy - Pope Paul III had the Sala Paolina converted into a richly decorated reception room