Saudi Arabia > The Castle of Tabuk

Today, breakfast is included in the hotel price. When we arrive downstairs at the reception, it turns out that breakfast is served on the ninth and highest floor. There is a large buffet ready, and it tastes great. After breakfast, we load the luggage into the car. We can take it easy today. We are driving through the desert to Tabuk. There is nothing else to see along the way but lots of sand. Today is Friday, a day off for Muslims. Many shops are closed. Fortunately, we find a gas station that is open. A young man from Bangladesh fills up our car. With a full tank, we can make the crossing to Tabuk. Just like yesterday, the highway runs like a black ribbon through the desert. The six-lane highway is hardly used. Occasionally, we pass a truck. Maybe there are more trucks than passenger cars on this road. Because there is so little traffic and no on- or off-ramps, the drive is a bit monotonous. Just four hundred kilometers straight ahead. Along the way, there are frequent warnings about crossing camels, gazelles, and possible sandstorms. We stop briefly at a herd of grazing camels beside the road. The animals look at us curiously. They come toward us but keep a safe distance. Around half past twelve, we enter Tabuk. Tabuk is the largest city in the northwest of Saudi Arabia. It is said that the Prophet Mohammed visited the city in the Islamic year 9 (the year 639 AD). The prophet ensured water in the spring, which allowed cultivation in the region.

Saudi Arabia - A solitary sign in the desert warns of possible sandstorms

We park in front of the castle. The castle looks closed. Could it be open on Fridays? The sign at the entrance says it opens at four o’clock. The shops in the street are also closed. The large At-Tawba mosque was built on the site where the prophet stayed for twenty days. The original mud mosque was replaced at the beginning of the 20th century by the current mosque. The mosque is just letting out. Men walk across the square in front of the mosque. The Hejaz Railway Station museum, about the history of the Hejaz railway line between Damascus and Medina, is closed today. It will reopen tomorrow morning. We decide to drive to the hotel first. Although we are still too early to check in, the rooms are already ready. We have a spacious apartment with two separate bedrooms and a kitchen. Not everything seems to work, but it’s a good location for the coming night. Around four o’clock, we return to the Tabuk castle in the city center. We receive an enthusiastic welcome. “Where are you from today?” He has probably heard “Netherlands” before, as Bas and Bert, whom we met earlier, are also here. They will follow approximately the same route in the coming days. Although stories circulate that the castle was already mentioned in 3500 BC, the castle dates from 1559.

Saudi Arabia - The fort in Tabuk served to protect the water source

It was built to protect the nearby water source. Nowadays, the springs are dry. Children are playing soccer on the square in front of the mosque. “How are you?” they shout at us as they chase the ball. The goalkeeper comes to give us a high five. We walk past the mosque into the shopping area. Where most shops were still closed earlier in the day, there is now lively trade. Peanuts are sold from a handcart. Can we take a photo of the seller and his son? We also buy some nuts. In a small park, we buy tea. Two ladies sell the tea behind a folding table. The tea is poured from a thermos flask. On a bench in the park, we drink the tea while watching the people passing by. We throw the cups in the trash after use, unlike many others who throw them on the ground. From our hotel, we walk in the evening to a Yemeni restaurant. When we enter, Bas and Bert are also eating there. It feels almost embarrassing how often we meet them. There is no service. It turns out we have to wait until the prayer is over. During prayer, the restaurant is closed. At the counter, we try to order food. The boy behind the counter does not speak English. Based on the pictures on the menu, we piece together a meal. It is a bit of a surprise what we get. It turns out to be chicken, lamb, and liver. Although none of us are big fans of liver, it tastes great. We combine the food with a salad of potatoes and camel meat. We finish with a tea.