Tanzania > To the Serengeti

During the night, I wake up to the sound of rain on the tent roof. This is more than just a few drops. I hear others getting out of their tents to close the side flaps. Mine has only a small flap by the entrance slightly open. Since my duffel bag is there too, I close the door more securely. Then I quickly fall back asleep. In the morning, I hear complaints from fellow travelers: no electricity, no water, and definitely no hot water. It takes a while, but I feel water coming from the tap. I turn on the shower. I have water. Even hot water. I quickly take a shower and shave under the water stream. I’m not sure if this will be possible in the coming days. Then we help each other take down the tents. At checkout, there’s confusion. The bar bills don’t seem to add up. Many travelers have more drinks charged than they actually consumed. Also, one person has to pay 2,000 shillings for soft drinks, another 3,000. Patrick gets involved. He looks visibly unhappy about the situation and decides to contact the lodge owner. Strangely, my bill is correct. A little later than planned, we set off for the Serengeti. It’s not a big deal since we have a 48-hour time slot in the National Park. The earlier we enter, the earlier we have to leave the day after tomorrow.

Tanzania - The young cubs are hiding among the bushes

As we approach Ndabaka, Patrick points out that this is where the Serengeti National Park begins. Serengeti means “endless plain.” The park covers over 14,000 km². It’s famous for the annual Great Migration. The annual Great Migration in Serengeti National Park is one of the most spectacular natural events worldwide. Millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles migrate through the Serengeti in Tanzania and the adjoining Maasai Mara reserve in Kenya. This migration follows the rain and grass growth, allowing animals access to fresh food and water during the dry season. Along the way, they must cross the Grumeti River, which is risky due to crocodiles and other predators. Just before the park entrance, we stop for lunch: salad, pasta, bread, and fruit. Meanwhile, Patrick pays for our park visit. We have a long drive through the park to reach our campsite, so we can’t stop for every animal. That means most zebras, wildebeest, and antelopes pass by without stopping. When we spot an elephant, of course, there’s time to pause.

Tanzania - A serval is a mediumsized catlike predator

The animal walks alone across the vast plain. Zak keeps a good pace. On the bumpy roads, that means the bus shakes a lot. Everything vibrates and rattles. Still, one traveler manages to spot a type of cat among the bushes. We cautiously reverse a bit. There’s a serval cat among the shrubs. The predator gets up and walks away. Further on, several jeeps are parked by a bush. There are young cubs in the bushes, probably left there while their mother hunts. Their heads peek just above the leaves. It’s important for them to stay hidden. Predators eat each other’s cubs because they’re future competitors for food. We stop by a river. From a distance, I already smell the hippos. They bathe in the shallow water. On the bank lie large Nile crocodiles. Further on, we pass some elephants and pause briefly by grazing giraffes. At a small waterhole, a hyena is bathing—remarkable since these animals are mostly nocturnal. Inside the bus, more and more flies appear. These are tsetse flies, a type of horsefly. Their bite feels like a pinprick. Unlike mosquitoes, tsetse flies can bite through thin clothing. I’m not spared either. Patrick keeps laughing, saying, “Welcome in the Serengeti,” with a big African smile.

Tanzania - At the campsite in Serengeti National Park

After almost six hours of driving, we arrive at Ngiri Campsite—a campsite in the middle of the Serengeti without fences or protection from wild animals. There’s already a travel group there. It turns out to be the Djoser group visiting Uganda and Tanzania. Patrick says we need to set up our tents close together in a row. Especially at night, we must be careful. “Shine your flashlight well first,” he emphasizes. Many animals disappear once the light hits them. Don’t go far from the tent for a quick bathroom break. If you really need to use the toilet building, go in pairs. If you come face to face with a lion, stay calm, keep looking at it, and walk backward. Never turn your back or run away! Go into the nearest tent. While we set up the tents, Silvia prepares dinner. The kitchen has mesh on the windows to keep out monkeys. We also eat dinner in the kitchen—it’s safer that way. Meanwhile, a campfire is lit to keep animals away. In the evening, when I brush my teeth, I see several eyes reflecting in the beam of my flashlight—probably hyenas.