Austria > Christmas Eve in Vienna

It is drizzly weather at Schiphol. A light rain is falling. This does not stop people from travelling. There is always activity at the airport. Today, many people are still trying to reach their destination before Christmas. That applies to us as well. It is December 24th, and Nicolette and I are on our way to the Austrian capital, Vienna. On the plane, the captain welcomes us and apologises that the aircraft cannot depart yet. There is a queue of departing planes. In the meantime, I read the Vienna travel guide. I look at the top 10 sights and the recommended restaurants. Because of this, I hardly notice that the plane leaves the gate forty minutes later than scheduled. As we take off, I watch the Netherlands disappear under a blanket of clouds. Hopefully, the weather will be better in Vienna. The flight attendants come by with a snack and something to drink. They have just enough time to serve everyone before the descent begins. Through the window, I see the sun shining. Thankfully. There are two options to get to the city centre of Vienna by public transport: the S7 Schnellbahn (metro) and the special City Airport Train (CAT). As the metro will not run for more than an hour, we choose the slightly more expensive CAT train. When we reach the platform, the train is already waiting. Fifteen minutes later, we step off at Wien Mitte station. The conductor is having an argument with one of the passengers. The man has not paid and is told to remain standing. He refuses. A scuffle breaks out behind us on the platform. We decide to walk on. We make our way into the city to Pension Dr. Geissler. The accommodation is located on Postgasse in the Innere Stadt — an excellent base for exploring the city. In the afternoon, we walk into the centre. The streets are strikingly quiet. Shops are closed, and people are preparing for Christmas Eve. At St. Stephen’s Cathedral, it is much busier. Tourists crowd around the Christmas stalls set up around the church. There is also a queue to enter the church. The splendour of the baroque building is somewhat lost amid the crowds. Only the rear part of the church is accessible, the rest being cordoned off by a fence.

Austria - The plane is ready in Amsterdam

The Christmas service is about to begin. At the barrier, staff have the difficult task of separating tourists from worshippers. Outside the church is the entrance to the church tower. We climb the 343 steps. On the narrow spiral staircase, we often have to stop to let people coming down pass by. From the top, there is a view over the city. Unfortunately, the panorama can only be seen from behind glass — this tower has no open gallery. From here we see countless palaces, stately mansions, and churches. The roof of St. Stephen’s Cathedral is made of colourful tiles forming the double-headed eagle, the symbol of Vienna. At the Christmas market in front of the church, we drink mulled wine. For the boot-shaped Christmas mugs, a deposit is required, otherwise everyone would take them home. Even though the shops are closed, the shopping streets are cosy and festive with Christmas decorations. We pass St. Peter’s Church. The 18th-century baroque church is already prepared for Midnight Mass, with extra chairs placed everywhere. The ceiling fresco is particularly beautiful. Through the Hofburg Imperial Palace, we reach Rathausplatz. In front of the City Hall, beneath trees lit with fairy lights, is a large Christmas market. People are making last-minute purchases or enjoying food and drinks at the stalls. Children are having fun on the ice rink. Christmas Eve is the most important moment of the holiday for Austrians, who celebrate it with their families. We have booked a six-course Christmas dinner at a restaurant for tonight. A few weeks ago, they still had exactly one table left. The reservation turns out to have been essential, as many restaurants are closed today. Wearing our smartest Christmas outfits, we walk to the restaurant.

Austria - The largest Christmas market in the city is near the city hall

It is drizzling outside — just light enough that we decide not to use the umbrella borrowed from the pension. The restaurant, Der Kuckuck, is fittingly located on Himmelpfortgasse (“Heaven’s Gate Alley”). When we arrive, the staff are still rearranging the tables. “We just had the previous group,” the owner apologises. We are in the third seating. Around nine o’clock, the small restaurant is full, mostly with tourists celebrating Christmas in the city. To our left are French guests, to our right a South African family. Meanwhile, the staff serve the different courses of the Christmas dinner. A special place to celebrate Christmas.

Austria - A sixcourse dinner in a restaurant in Vienna