Austria > The Hofburg Palace

With the travel guide in hand, we walk back into the city after breakfast. We follow the mapped-out walking route from the guide to St. Stephen’s Cathedral. In the Maria Rotunda Church, on the same street as the hotel, a service is just taking place. We decide not to go inside. Around the corner lies the Schönlaterngasse, a delightful little view with old, colorful houses and courtyards. We had walked down this street last night as well but hadn’t noticed the small alleys. Through a passage by the Cathedral Museum, we return to Stephansplatz. The Christmas market has not yet opened. In a side street is the small church of the Teutonic Order. The 13th-century church tower is still original. The church itself has been regularly renovated after various fires. We also take a look at the courtyard behind the church. We wander further through the streets and end up at Josefsplatz, part of the Hofburg. In the center stands the statue of Emperor Joseph II. On the square are the Palffy Palace and the Pallavicini Palace. On the other side of Josefsplatz lies the former library of Charles VI. The Prunksaal houses hundreds of thousands of historic books—meters-high shelves filled with old volumes spread over two floors. I am impressed by the hall with its beautiful Baroque dome. The many frescoes give the Prunksaal a special atmosphere. We follow the walking route through the Hofburg district.

Austria - The beautiful former library of Charles VI

On the Graben, the wide shopping street, stands the plague monument—an ode to the expulsion of the deadly disease in 1617. We pass luxury shops behind beautifully decorated facades. Female statues support the structures, and angels look down on us from the buildings. Every house has something worth admiring. The Gothic St. Michael’s Church, compared to the other Baroque churches, is less lavishly decorated, yet this simplicity has something special. When the bells begin to ring for the church service, we quickly leave the church. The walking route ends at Michaelerplatz in front of the Hofburg. We join the queue to buy a ticket for a visit to the royal apartments in the Hofburg. Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth used this palace in the winter months and Schönbrunn Palace in the summer. In the first rooms, the imperial dinnerware from various eras is on display. The audio guide explains that over the years, the decoration became increasingly elaborate. It also notes that the silverware collection is limited—much silver was melted down to finance later wars. The second exhibition is about the life of Sisi, the nickname of Empress Elisabeth. She led an unhappy life in the palace, with all the accompanying obligations. In 1898, she was stabbed by an activist in Geneva and did not survive the attack.

Austria - The statue of Emperor Joseph II

The last part of the tour goes through the imperial apartments. We see Emperor Franz Joseph’s study, his bedroom, and the dining room. We also walk through Sisi’s rooms—she had her own section in the palace. The rooms are just as beautiful as those in Schönbrunn yesterday. Behind the Hofburg lies Heldenplatz. A statue of Prince Eugene on horseback stands prominently on the square. To the left is the old library; to the right lies the Volksgarten, an extensive landscaped garden. We cross the Ringstrasse and arrive at Maria Theresienplatz. In the square, between the imposing identical buildings of the Museum of Art History and the Museum of Natural History, there is a Christmas market. Although it is pleasantly busy, we decide to look for a café to have a drink. After a whole day of walking, it’s also nice to sit down for a bit. We cross the Ringstrasse again and stroll into the Burggarten park. In this park, also part of the Hofburg, stands the statue of Mozart. The Palm House is here as well, though the glass pavilion is closed today. Via the Albertina Palace, we return to Vienna’s shopping district. In a restaurant, we order a drink. In the evening, we have dinner at a traditional Austrian restaurant near our hotel. The board with offers at the door turns out to be valid only at lunchtime, but the menu has enough alternatives. I opt for a schnitzel menu—typically Austrian. We end the evening with a walk along the Danube Canal.