Algeria > The old city of Djemila

After the long travel day yesterday, I slept very well. I take a shower. I don’t have to think long about what to wear—I only have the clothes from yesterday. I also realize I don’t have a comb to fix my hair. I received a French email that suggests our luggage has arrived. However, yesterday there were notifications for Bart and Allert, and Allert’s notification was for me. Who is this message for? The email does not indicate whether all the luggage has arrived. After breakfast, we meet the driver in the hotel lobby. He is Algerian but has more of an Irish appearance. Unfortunately, he only speaks Arabic and French. We drive to the airport for our luggage. When we arrive there through the busy traffic, we are welcomed by Nehla, who introduces herself as our guide. She speaks fluent English. With her, we enter the arrivals hall. As we are led to the baggage claim area, I already see my travel bag. Unfortunately, Milko’s bag is not there. The official checks the computer system and sees that the bag is still in Paris. Sigh. What now? Today we are driving about 400 kilometers east. We are told the luggage can be delivered. If we understand correctly, the suitcase is expected around midnight and will then be flown on to Constantine, the city where we will stay for two days.

Algeria - The Temple of the Gens Septimia

There are not many other options. With three suitcases instead of four, we get back into our minibus. We leave Algiers and drive east along the highway. It rains occasionally. The weather forecast for today is not very good. Because of the clouds, the mountain ranges on the horizon look gloomy. Fortunately, the sun breaks through from time to time. After midday, we arrive in Djemila. Djemila is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in North Africa and is rightly listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The ruins are remarkably complete, with broad paved streets, a forum, temples, baths, and an impressive theater. In the museum, Nehla uses a scale model to show how the city expanded during different periods. The museum also displays ancient mosaics. Floors were once decorated with intricate mosaics—the smaller the stones, the more elaborate the floor. As we walk up to the archaeological site, it starts raining again. What a shame that it rains now. Wearing my raincoat, I follow Nehla to the Christian basilica. The remains of this church are in the most recent section, dating from the 4th to the 6th century.

Algeria - The Roman amphitheater of Djemila

Slightly lower down is the Temple of the Gens Septimia, a sanctuary dedicated to the imperial Severan family. Finally, in the oldest section of Djemila, we visit the Capitol Temple, dedicated to the traditional Roman gods Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva, as well as the marketplace and the extensive bath complex. After two hours of wandering, we return to the bus. We decide to skip lunch and continue driving toward Constantine. However, there is news about the luggage. The Algerian tour operator suggests they pick up Milko’s suitcase at the airport and bring it to Constantine by car. This seems more reliable than sending it via the extra flight. Formal permission from Milko is required for them to collect the bag. In El Eulma, the driver tries to find an internet café to print the necessary form. Many shops are closed on Sunday. Once a place is found, Milko signs the form and emails the scanned version. Hopefully, this works. From here, it is still about an hour and a half drive to Constantine. Along the way, we pass an unusually large number of houses under construction—sometimes entire apartment blocks. Construction often seems to have stopped. In other countries, people sometimes save up to finish a house, but here it seems more the rule than the exception.

Algeria - The illuminated bridge at Constantine

Around six o’clock, we arrive at the Protea Hotel, which has a view of the old city of Constantine and one of the historic bridges. Tomorrow we will explore the city with Nehla. In the lobby, we order a beer. We also decide to eat at the hotel. The food is disappointing for most of us, although I must say my traditional Chakhchoukha tastes excellent—a local dish from Constantine.