Algeria > The Roman City of Tipaza

Today is basically a free day in Algiers. Late tonight, we will fly to southern Algeria. Since we already explored the old center of Algiers yesterday, we booked a tour today to the ancient Roman cities of Cherchell and Tipaza. After breakfast, we place our luggage in the hotel lobby, where it had been yesterday as well. At nine o’clock, the minibus arrives. It’s the same driver as yesterday. We leave the city heading west. After about three-quarters of an hour, he parks at the edge of a roundabout. Other traffic has to go around. He explains that we are waiting here for the guide. A little later, Leila walks up. She will guide us to the two Roman cities. Leila explains that we will first drive to Cherchell, the farthest city from Algiers. During the French colonization, many historic Roman buildings were demolished and replaced with French-style architecture. From the small park, we overlook the harbor and the Mediterranean Sea—a beautiful view. The museum on this square is closed on Sundays, unfortunately. Leila takes us through the souq. We pass the mosque, which from the outside looks more like a Greek temple.

Algeria - The harbor of Cherchell

The French had attempted to build a church here using old fragments. After independence, the building was converted into a mosque. Among the busy streets lie ancient archaeological remains. We see the oval amphitheater. A little further, between some houses, are the remnants of the forum. We then drive on to Tipaza. The city of Tipaza is better preserved. During the French colonization, nothing was built or demolished here. We enter the city at the former bathhouse. Next, we pass the oval Roman arena, where battles between humans and animals were once held. The tunnel providing access to the arena is still visible. We pass the old and the new temple; only the bottom layers of stone remain visible. Via the old Roman street with columns, we reach the sea, where a luxurious villa once stood. From its balcony, one could look out over the clear waters of the Mediterranean. The Roman remains contrast beautifully against the rocks and sea.

Algeria - The Roman settlement on the Mediterranean Sea

We continue to the basilica. Not much remains, but the sheer size is impressive. Leila also takes us to a tomb of the Numidians, which is technically not part of the tour. Within a circular enclosure, we see stone tombs dating back to before the Romans. Through the theater, we leave the site. It is already two o’clock when we arrive at a lunch restaurant—a luxury fish restaurant. We order paella, a delicious choice. From the terrace, we have a view over the sea. After paying, we check whether we still have enough money for our desert trip, as lunch was more expensive than our usual midday meals. On the way back to Algiers, we visit the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, the burial monument of the Berber king Juba II and his wife Cleopatra Selene II. We walk around the circular stone structure. Like Tipaza, this mausoleum is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Here, we also say goodbye to Leila. The driver takes us back to the hotel in the city. Our plan to have a beer at Restaurant Bardo, where we dined on the first night, won’t work—the restaurant opens only at seven o’clock.

Algeria - The evening flight to Djanet

We are not very hungry after the large lunch, so we decide to wait in the hotel lobby. At exactly eight o’clock, a minibus arrives. The driver takes us to the airport and drops us off at the domestic terminal. Surprisingly, it is quite busy, with many flights departing in the evening and at night. Perhaps the check-in process is slow as well. Staff are frequently interrupted by passengers with questions or issues. With my boarding pass, I go through customs—or rather, the police, since we are staying within Algeria. The passport is checked, a small form must be filled out, and the boarding pass is inspected, several times it seems. Eventually, I receive a stamp on my boarding pass confirming everything is in order. It will probably be checked again later. Due to all the lines, there isn’t much time for a drink. The flight is already being called—or at least, that’s what the guy next to me in the toilet says. I can’t make anything out from the announcement. Well ahead of time, everyone is on board. I am seated at the emergency exit and notice that I am tired. Immediately after takeoff, I try to sleep, but it is only brief naps. Around midnight, the plane begins its landing.