Benin > Voodoo festival of Quidah

January 10th is celebrated every year throughout Benin as Voodoo Day. Voodoo ceremonies are organized across the entire country. The largest festival takes place in Ouidah on the beach right behind the Porte du Non-Retour. The President of Benin and the King of Voodoo are also present at the festival in Ouidah.

Benin - A ceremonial dance during the Voodoo festival in Quidah

At ten o’clock, we drive in our own bus towards Ouidah. Today, the route to the beach is much busier than a few days ago. At the festival grounds, it is crowded. Countless scooters are lined up in long rows, and we are directed to the large parking area. I notice that the organization is well managed. Every now and then, a police car drives through to drop off a dignitary. As I walk through the Porte du Non-Retour, I see a large square on the beach. Around it are covered seating areas with plastic chairs.

Benin - The king of the Voodoo during the Benin festival

On the right side is the VIP section. In the center, a stage is set up with a covered podium. Anani warns us not to take photos. Cameras are confiscated if you take pictures without a photo pass. I purchase a special photo card for 16,000 CFA. Although this is about 16 euros, you only experience this once. Apparently, individual voodoo groups along the sidelines have their own passes. Under the covered seating areas, various groups perform dances, which is a kind of competition among them. When the festival begins, the central area is cleared. Everyone must stand behind the tribunes. Without my prior knowledge, I find that with my photo pass, I can freely walk across the field. This allows me to stand next to the main stage, alongside film crews and professional photographers. I am asked to stay low so that people in the stands can still see the performances. The performance begins with dance, drums, and acrobatics—a magnificent sight. I can also take close-up photos of the President and the King of Voodoo. I am glad I bought the special pass. Once the speeches start, the audience and voodoo groups head en masse to the sea. They visit the voodoo temple on the beach, and some ritually touch the seawater and sprinkle it on their faces.

Benin - Simon in his fun beach hut in Grand Popo

After this somewhat unclear ceremony, the performances continue on the stage. Voodoo dancers perform their dances in sequences. Finally, around three o’clock, we drive back to Grand Popo. In the evening, it is more or less the last time we eat together. Since we are heading to the airport tomorrow night, it is difficult to organize a meal in Lomé. On Hewe beach, a meal has been prepared, and live music is playing. The food is well arranged, and we dance along with the band. Around eleven o’clock, we visit Simon one last time. Anani, Toto, Abdullah, and Abbas come along. Simon has already cleaned the bar and closed, but he reopens quickly. As soon as the reggae music starts again, his three friends also arrive. Anani is quite pleased with the beach bar; it could also be a perfect spot for a farewell dinner. Just after midnight, I crawl into bed.