Bhutan > The Punakha Monastery

The hotel and hotel room look fine. So I expect there to be hot water from the tap. This expectation is met, although the showerhead hangs inconveniently low. The breakfast buffet is also fine. I choose toast and fried egg. I skip the rice dishes. Today is a national holiday in Bhutan, Coronation Day. In 2008, the fifth king of Bhutan ascended the throne. Schools and government offices are closed. After breakfast, we leave Thimphu. In the center, a running race is held in honor of the holiday. The runners run on the main road, and police officers hold back traffic. We drive east toward Punakha. For this, we first have to cross the 3,120-meter-high Dochula Pass. A winding road leads us to the top. The weather is clear. From the top, we see the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayan giants in the distance. I spot the Gangkhar Puensum mountain. At 7,570 meters, this is the highest mountain in Bhutan. Because Bhutan forbids climbing mountains higher than six kilometers, this is also the highest mountain that is not allowed to be climbed. On the Dochula Pass stand 108 small stupas around one larger stupa. These white stupas were erected in 2008 as a tribute to the soldiers who died during a short conflict with Indian rebels in the south of the country. Several tourists stop here, some of whom we have met before. After a cup of tea at the pass, we descend via hairpin bends to Punakha, a descent of almost 1,500 meters. The first stop is at the temple of Chimi Lhakhang. Originally, this temple was scheduled for Saturday, but because of the national holiday, temples are closed on Saturday. To reach the temple, we walk along a narrow path through the rice fields. We also pass a small village. The Temple of Chimi Lhakhang is also known as Bhutan’s fertility temple. It is mainly known as a pilgrimage site for couples seeking fertility and blessings for their marriage. They walk around the temple carrying the "Phallus of Enlightenment," a large wooden phallus wrapped in cloth.

Bhutan - 108 stupas on the top of Dochula Pass

It feels a bit strange when I also see tourists walking around the temple with the phallus. They must be desperate to have children. The small courtyard is busy. Various groups of tourists are just arriving or leaving. I take off my shoes and enter the temple. Rinchen points out the different depictions of Buddha inside the temple. Due to the crowd and maybe also because of the large wooden penis, the temple has a somewhat playful atmosphere. We walk back through the rice fields to the lunch spot. Along the way, souvenir shops sell plenty of colorful phalluses. You can even buy a wooden airplane shaped like a penis here. The restaurant is along the path through the rice fields. I expect many tourists inside, but we turn out to be the only guests. Various Bhutanese dishes appear on the table. The food tastes excellent once again. From the Chimi Lhakhang temple, it is a short drive to the Punakha Dzong. This is one of the most beautiful monastery-forts in Bhutan. As we approach, we already see the impressive fort on the other side of the Phochu River. The Punakha Dzong is strategically located at the confluence of the Phochu River (male river) and the Mochu River (female river). The fort was originally built in 1637 by Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of Bhutan, to protect the country from Tibetan invasions. The Punakha Dzong features striking Bhutanese architecture with whitewashed walls, wood carvings, and golden decorations. The fort was built without nails, following traditional construction techniques. The dzong has several towers and courtyards, including the utse (main tower) and the Kuenrey (assembly hall). We walk across the access bridge.

Bhutan - The impressive Punakha monastery fort

The fort has been hit by fire five times and floods six times. The bridge has also been repeatedly destroyed. The current bridge was restored with German help and should be more resistant to high water. At the dzong’s entrance, the enormous size stands out. The fort is 180 meters long and 75 meters high. The staircase leading to the fort could previously be pulled up. Around the first courtyard lie the administrative offices. The temple in the second courtyard is accessible only to monks. While Rinchen explains the complex, a large hornet flies into my hair. The creature stays even after some waving. I swat it away. Shortly after, perhaps the same hornet flies into my sweater. I don’t see it but hear buzzing. I quickly take off my sweater. The insect is a bit stunned and flies away. In Bhutan, you cannot kill animals. Every animal can, according to Buddhism, be a reincarnation of ancestors. Just before we want to enter the large temple, I feel buzzing around my head again. While trying to swat the hornet away, I feel a sting on my head. Although I feel the sting, I think I managed to swat the hornet away just in time. Quickly, I take off my shoes and rush into the temple. Inside the temple, the life of Buddha is painted on the wall. Rinchen explains the different stages of Buddha’s life using the images. The place where Buddha attained enlightenment, I will visit later near Varanasi in India. The temple houses magnificent and colossal Buddha statues. Around the statues are numerous smaller figures, giving an overwhelming impression.

Bhutan - The Punakha Suspension Bridge is 180 meters long

It’s a shame I can’t capture this in a photo. There’s no choice but to store this as a memory. We leave the Punakha monastery and follow the path along the other side. Via a narrow path, we reach Bhutan’s longest suspension bridge over the Pho Chu River. The Punakha Suspension Bridge is 180 meters long. Carefully, I cross the bridge. On the other side is a small shop selling ice cream. I choose a cold cola. Meanwhile, Gelle has driven the car around. We get in for the final leg to the overnight address. The homestay lies on the other side of the river and is only accessible via a smaller suspension bridge. The luggage is loaded onto a wheelbarrow. We walk behind it. At the homestay, we are kindly received. The rooms are on the first floor. Around the house lies a large piece of land. Part is used for crops. On the other side is a campsite with several tents ready for guests. Two boys are practicing archery. Archery has a special meaning in Bhutan and is deeply rooted in Bhutanese culture. I get to shoot once as well. Maybe I’m too afraid to shoot the arrow over the target. My arrow lands in the grass. I thank for the second attempt. By the river, a jetty with seating has been made. Here, we watch as it slowly gets dark. Quickly, we return to the homestay for dinner. After dinner, it gets quiet. We do not see the family and remain alone in the dining area. This is a different experience than at the previous homestay. Actually, after the reception, we hardly saw the family. In one of the bedrooms, it turns out the window consists only of mesh. The wind blows strongly through it. The window cannot be closed. The other room has four beds, and we decide to spend the night together in one room.