Vietnam > Stuck in the tunnel passage

At seven o’clock we leave Ho Chi Minh City by bus. Even on a Saturday, the streets are already busy early in the morning with heavy traffic. Today’s optional excursion takes us to the Cu Chi tunnels and the Cao Dai temple in Tay Ninh. The Cu Chi tunnel complex lies about an hour and a half’s drive away.

Vietnam - The small passage in the Cu Chi tunnels

The network consists of 250 kilometers of tunnels and served as a hiding place for the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War. Cu Chi was, in fact, a large underground city with sleeping quarters, kitchens, and even operating rooms. When we arrive at Cu Chi, we first watch a film about the tunnels, showing how people lived there during the war. Then we visit the museum. The guide shows us various booby traps with pits lined with sharp bamboo stakes. He also shows us a narrow entrance to one of the tunnels. By keeping the entrances small, the Vietnamese could enter, but most Americans could not. We are allowed to try the opening. Els disappears completely into the hole, and Jeannette also slides in. When they ask for more volunteers, I offer myself. Assuming I could only fit my legs in (good for a photo), I lower myself into the hole. To my surprise, I manage to squeeze my hips through as well, though it’s tight. That’s enough for me—I decide not to go further down. Getting back up proves harder; my hips are stuck, and a brief moment of panic sets in (much to the amusement of those taking pictures).

Vietnam - The holy great temple of Tay Ninh

Fortunately, two travel companions rush over to help pull me out. Still a bit shaken, I look back at my attempt. At least the photo turned out well. A little further on, we visit a section of the tunnel that’s easier to crawl through. Based on our experiences in another tunnel complex last week, not everyone joins in this time—only four of us do. On hands and knees, we follow the guide, crawling down to a lower section and then back up again. The tunnel is narrow, though widened for tourists. I crawl last in line. When I reach the exit, I ask the guide what lies beyond. He invites me to follow him through another stretch of the passage. Why not? It’s supposed to be even narrower. Crawling on hands and knees, I have to pull my shoulders closer together. It’s hot and stuffy inside. Was it always like this back then? The guide offers to hold my flashlight to light the way, but he moves much faster, and I see the light disappear around a corner several meters ahead. It’s a strange thought as I continue crawling in the dark. I’m inside a tunnel—my group is probably walking above me now, unaware that I’ve taken a different route. I call out for the guide, and he returns, laughing. Around the corner is the exit, and I emerge triumphantly. It was a remarkable experience I wouldn’t have wanted to miss. We continue to Tay Ninh to visit the Great Temple of Cao Dai. The temple is one of the most bizarre places of worship in the world—it looks like something from a religious fairytale. Four times a day a mass is held, at six and twelve o’clock.

Vietnam - The Tay Ninh temple

We arrive just in time for the noon ceremony. We are allowed to enter the temple, but we must leave our shoes outside. From the balcony, we watch the clergy enter the Great Temple, dressed in bright red, blue, and yellow robes. Their followers, dressed in white, take their places behind them. The service is both fascinating and strange. After about half an hour, we’ve seen enough and leave the temple complex for lunch in Tay Ninh town. Around two o’clock we drive back to Ho Chi Minh City. Along the way, I enjoy watching Vietnamese village life. Back in the city, we take it easy, sitting on a terrace with a nice cold beer while observing city life around us. In the evening, we dine at “13,” a local restaurant a few doors down from “19,” where we ate yesterday. Later, I take a short walk alone through the city center. It’s Saturday night, and as tradition has it, young couples ride their motorbikes up and down the boulevards. The streets are crowded with young people on scooters. I take a few photos of Ho Chi Minh City by night and then return to my hotel.