Cambodia > The impressive temple of Angkor Wat

After breakfast, we take the bus to the Angkor complex. Today we have a cheerful and mostly laughing guide with us. Unlike the previous guides, his English is fairly good, although he tends to be long-winded. He laughs mostly at his own jokes, which sounds funny over the bus microphone. Just outside Siem Reap, we first have to buy a ticket. We purchase a three-day pass (40 dollars).

Cambodia - The southern gate of Angkor Thom

At the ticket counter, a photo is taken, and shortly after, a personalized ticket rolls out of the printer. We drive the six kilometers to the first temple of Angkor. The entire complex consists of a variety of temples spread over an area of thirty by thirty kilometers. Ahead of us rises the most famous temple, Angkor Wat, but we drive past it for now. We get off at the southern gate of Angkor Thom and walk through the gate. The entrance marks a temple complex measuring four by four kilometers. Above the gate, a Bodhisattva smiles down—an enormous face carved into the stone. On the other side of the gate, a small bus is waiting to take us to the Bayon temple, located in the center of Angkor Thom. Built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, the temple initially appears like a massive, unstructured rock. However, as we climb the stairs inside, the temple becomes increasingly magnificent. The 200 Buddha faces on its 54 towers make the temple truly unique. Bayon is also the only non-square temple of Angkor. Next, we leave Bayon and cross the road to the Baphuon temple. This temple is currently under restoration and cannot be visited. The area seems to serve as a free market for book sellers, who approach us with travel guides and reference books about Angkor, trying to sell them.

Cambodia - Deep inscriptions in the Elephant Terrace

Prices quickly drop from 15 to 10 and finally to 8 dollars. I check that the book is still in English and hasn’t switched to German (which apparently happens) and decide to buy it—a nice keepsake and useful reference. Through a smaller gate, we reach the Phimeanakas temple. Some tourists climb the steep stairs, but our guide disapproves—they are too damaged and steep, which seems reasonable. We climb using a regular side staircase. Every temple remains remarkable. From the front of the temple, we reach the Terrace of the Elephants, a broad platform adorned with elephant carvings overlooking the central square. Kings once addressed the people or watched games from here. Our little bus awaits to take us back to the southern gate, where we board the larger bus and return to the hotel for lunch. To avoid the hottest part of the day, we have a break until three o’clock. I would have preferred to visit a few more temples, but a rest is also welcome. I order lunch, a beer, and sit by the pool. Around three o’clock, we return to the temples by bus and get off at the most famous temple, Angkor Wat. The afternoon sun makes it the ideal time to visit. Angkor Wat is remarkable for its spectacular architecture. We walk over the stone entrance bridge spanning the 200-meter-wide moat and enter the temple through the gate.

Cambodia - Cambodia Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat covers an area the size of 100 football fields and is one of the largest religious buildings in the world. Unsurprisingly, it attracts huge crowds—likely every Korean, Japanese, and Chinese tourist knows that the afternoon light is best. We stroll along in the wide line toward the central temple. From the old library, we reach the classic photo spot: the reflection of the towers in the water, probably the most photographed angle of Angkor Wat. It’s challenging to get a photo without tourists in the frame. Through the colonnade, we reach the bas-reliefs. It’s crowded, and our guide explains each relief in detail, which feels long-winded, and his constant laughing at his own jokes begins to get tiresome. The group spreads out; some move ahead, others linger to study details. The guide tries to keep everyone together and ensure we have time for the sunset. Some irritation arises because we rested for three hours and now have to rush. Not everyone is interested in the sunset and returns to the hotel on their own. With a small group, we follow the guide to the second level—truly special to walk here. The third level of the central temple is now closed, with steps at a steep 70-degree angle, too dangerous to climb. After about an hour and a half, only part of the group is present. The guide feels responsible for everyone but has lost track. We inform him that some members went back on their own. Meanwhile, the sun is already setting. Eventually, six of us drive to Phnom Bakheng temple. At the foot of the hill, we climb quickly. A large crowd has already started ahead, all eager to enjoy the sunset (as we had been warned). At the top, I finally realize how many people are there

Cambodia - The sunset from Baksei Chamkrong

. In the distance, I can barely see the top of Angkor Wat. I had hoped for a better view. As the sun sinks in a hazy glow, I quickly snap a few photos with temple corners in the foreground. Satisfied, I head back down. At the bottom, I meet other travelers and wait for the rest. After a while, we conclude that the two missing members likely went down on their own. We descend, especially since the agreed-upon time has passed. Down below, Peter is still not present. Dusk falls, and other tourists gather their buses and leave. Could he really be waiting for us at the top? With even the roadside stalls closing, that seems unlikely. Frustrated, we stand in the dark. The guide calls Perry at the hotel, and it turns out Peter is already there. This brings relief, but also irritation at the long wait. We can’t understand how it happened. In the dark, we take the bus back to Siem Reap. We don’t feel like going into town for dinner, so we order a meal on the poolside terrace. The lost sheep apologizes and shares his side of the story.