Cambodia > To Phnom Penh in Cambodia

Today we leave Vietnam and continue our tour in Cambodia. We set off early. We follow much of the same road as yesterday, on our way to Phnom Penh. On the way, we stop at the house of the family of Phan Thi Kim Phuc. She became world famous at the age of nine. A photo of her running and crying after being hit by a napalm bomb was awarded the World Press Photo of 1972. The photo contributed to the growing resistance against the war in America. Kim Phuc fled and now lives in Canada, but her parents still run a roadside restaurant. We make a small collection for her family. They are being hindered by the Vietnamese government (because their daughter fled). For example, they were forced to demolish half of their restaurant to make room for a new sidewalk.

Cambodia - The small market on the bank of the Mekong

They hope to use money from tourists to build an extra floor. As we continue driving, we soon reach the border. Out of Vietnam, a new stamp, a short stretch through no-man’s-land, and at the other border a visa application (25 dollars) and through customs. The cholera control proves more difficult. I have a (fake) stamp in my medical passport for cholera, but I left it in my main luggage. Fortunately, I am not the only one. The officer kindly offers, for one dollar per person, to overlook the issue and not check anything further. We refuse! He tries again, but then finds it too troublesome. Without paying a bribe, we still receive the stamp and are allowed to enter Cambodia. A new bus and a new guide are waiting for us there. Cambodia is very different from Vietnam. It looks more like Laos — much less construction along the road, and most houses, like in Laos, are made of wood. We drive again on Highway 1, but this time the Cambodian one, towards Phnom Penh. We have lunch in a roadside restaurant. Prices are in US dollars, and only change under one dollar is given in Cambodian riel. Outside, a procession of a Buddhist monk passes by.

Cambodia - The ferry across the Mekong

It is clear that Cambodia is much more focused on Buddhism again. We continue towards Phnom Penh. Along the way we have to cross the Mekong River. The river is too wide for a bridge. We have to wait for the ferry, and we are not the only ones. So we have time to stroll around the small market. We are warned to keep a close eye on our belongings. In Cambodia, the gap between rich and poor is extreme. There are many beggars in the streets, but also an enormous number of Lexus Landrovers. These often move freely through traffic, park on sidewalks, and, as here, are given priority at the ferry. Corruption is everywhere. While we are waiting, our Cambodian guide buys a bag of crickets. He offers me one. Hesitantly, I take it and taste it. The taste is actually fine, but thinking that this food has been sitting in the sun all day, I decline a second one. After half an hour, we can board and continue on the other side. The last part of the route is in poor condition. There is a lot of roadwork going on. At four o’clock we arrive at the hotel in Phnom Penh. The room is not great — a stuffy space without a window. We decide to ask for another room. This becomes quite a spectacle. First, our room is sprayed with air freshener. Then it turns out there are no other rooms available. There is one with a double bed (not much better!). If we pay extra, we can get an upgrade. We politely decline, since we already paid for a good room but did not get one. Eventually, we receive the upgrade to a VIP room for one night, but we must move again tomorrow. We agree. The VIP room is about one meter wider and otherwise the same. In the afternoon, we take a walk around the hotel and sit on a terrace. In the evening, we take a tuk-tuk to the FCC (Foreign Correspondent Club) restaurant. This place is a meeting point for journalists and foreign travelers. We have an excellent meal here at Western prices.