India > From Hemis Shukpachan to Themisgang

I slept very well last night. At 3,700 meters, this was the highest overnight stay during the trek. I also notice that I don’t have any muscle soreness from yesterday’s long hike.

India - Trekking through the mountains of Ladakh

Tea is brought to me in bed again. The crew is amazing. While I wash, get dressed, and pack my things, they already have breakfast ready. A little after eight, I leave the campsite. Today I’m heading to Themisgang. I follow Dadul from Hemis Shukpachan. At the edge of the village, Dadul shows me the ancient cedar trees. According to legend, God planted the trees. The village of Hemis Shukpachan is named after these trees. I continue to the first pass of the day. The route gradually climbs to the top of the Meptek Pass at 3,750 meters. Over the pass, I descend into the valley. The mountain path drops along the slope, and on the other side, I can already see the next pass. The zigzag path clings to the mountainside. At the bottom of the second climb of the day, I can choose between a steeper route or a slightly less steep but longer route.

India - A group photo on the summit in Ladakh

I opt for the steep variant. The climb is similar to yesterday’s ascent, except the ground is much looser sand. With each step, I sink back a little. Fortunately, the climb is only about a hundred meters. At the top of the pass, I take my time. I sit on the mountain pass and enjoy the stunning view. A long descent brings me to the village of Ang. In the shade of a tent, I have my lunch. Afterwards, I walk about another hour to the campsite at Themisgang, at 3,200 meters.

India - The Themisgang Monastery is located on the mountain rock

In the afternoon, I climb to Themisgang Monastery. The monastery sits on a rocky outcrop over a hundred meters above the village. Originally built in the 15th century as a palace, it was later converted into a monastery. I walk up through the village, greeting people on the street with a friendly “Juley.” I take the zigzag path upward. The oldest part of the monastery is used by the red-cap monks. The adjacent monastery belongs to the yellow-cap order. In the red-cap temple, Dadul explains the meaning of the Buddha statues. From the monastery’s balustrade, I look out over the valley. Dadul points out the route for tomorrow. I can see the mountain pass I will cross. On the other side of the monastery, I descend again via the paved road. At the bottom, a nunnery sits along the road. I walk into the courtyard. A few elderly nuns welcome me and show me around the nunnery. The younger nuns are on holiday, visiting their own families. I show them my family photos from the Netherlands.