India > Closure of the Wagah border

In the morning, it’s raining cats and dogs again. I wait in the hotel until it stops. When I step outside, large puddles cover the streets. The rainwater can’t drain away. I try to cross the street without getting wet and avoid splashes from passing traffic. I walk a few hundred meters to the Mata Temple. It’s crowded today—it’s Lord Krishna’s birthday, a holiday for Hindus.

India - The funfairlike pilgrim route to the Mata Temple in Amritsar

As soon as I enter the temple, I am directed to the start of the pilgrims’ route. I follow the devotees up the steps. The route consists of narrow paths on different levels around the temple. It reminds me of an amusement park. I pass several statues of gods. The corridors are decorated with countless mirrors, bright colors, and flowers. I have to crawl on my knees through a low cave. I climb narrow staircases and wade through shallow sacred water. It’s an extraordinary experience. At the end, inside the temple, I see many people gathered for Krishna’s birthday. Several people approach me, asking if I’ve completed the pilgrimage route and whether they can take a photo with me. Just as I am about to leave, an elephant appears in front of the temple. The colossal animal stops before the temple. Painted and decorated specially for the occasion, it’s an impressive sight. I continue walking through Amritsar via Court Road, observing daily life as it unfolds. Hearing music along the way, I enter a small gate and find myself in a courtyard. I have no idea where I am but am immediately welcomed. It turns out to be a small temple.

India - Indian life in Amritsar

Here, too, preparations are underway for Krishna’s birthday. I am given a tour of the temple and invited to join the celebrations around midnight—a plan I cannot attend due to my onward journey to Delhi. The staff are so proud that I visit this little temple that they offer me a drink. Cold cola is quickly procured. When I attempt to make a donation afterward, it is politely refused. I continue to the Panorama Museum in the park. I buy a ticket at the entrance and go inside. Based on the Lonely Planet description, I had expected a panoramic film, but it is more a depiction of the 17th-century battlefield. I am quickly done viewing it. In the afternoon, I head to the Wagah Border for the border-closing ceremony between India and Pakistan. The border lies about thirty kilometers outside Amritsar. For a long time, this was the only crossing between the two countries. Arriving at the border, I am shocked. I see hundreds, if not thousands, of people waiting at the gate. What a crowd! Young boys try to sell water bottles through the crowd—a smart idea, as it’s hot. There is a lot of waving and cheering. As a tourist, I am allowed to enter early via a side entrance. From there, it’s still a few hundred meters to the actual border. Halfway there, I hear shouting behind me. The gate has opened. Running past me are mostly young men, heading for the stands. I am stopped. Foreigners must use the VIP route.

India - Thousands of spectators gather to witness the closing of the border

After a thorough security check, I reach the stands. There is a special section for tourists at the very front. From there, I can see the Indian and Pakistani border posts and large stands around them. I estimate five to six thousand spectators in total. It’s so crowded that people at the back of the stands struggle to see anything. I give them little chance. On the Pakistani side, it’s very quiet—hardly any spectators due to Ramadan. On both sides, loud, triumphant music plays. Deafening cheers erupt when a small boy runs by with the Indian flag. Spurred on by a leader in front of the stands, everyone claps, sings, and cheers along with the music. The scene resembles a football match between the two countries more than a border-closing ceremony. Around 6:30 PM, the ceremony officially begins. Soldiers in parade uniform theatrically perform the closing. Amid loud cheering, the ceremony ends with the lowering of the flags and the closing of the border. Overall, it’s amusing but somewhat over the top. I quickly look for my minibus and am relieved to find the driver again in the parking lot. We join the line of cars back to Amritsar.