Malaysia > Leeches everywhere

Early in the morning, I step into the boat again. It is six o’clock. Around sunrise, the animals are more active along the river. I head upstream in the opposite direction. The weather is beautiful, with a light mist hanging over the water.

Malaysia - Morning mist over the Kinabatangan River

Almost immediately I spot a group of silver leaf monkeys leaping through the branches. After that it becomes rather quiet. Fortunately, further along I see several birds of prey in the treetops. A pair of Asian Black hornbills keeps a close eye on me as I slowly approach with the boat. A little farther on, on the opposite side, a wrinkled hornbill sits perched in the treetop. Nature can be so beautiful. Back at the lodge, I arrive just in time for breakfast. I exchange experiences with fellow travelers who did not join me.

Malaysia - Due to high water we navigate between trees to reach Oxbow Lake

Later in the morning, I want to take part in the walk to the oxbow lake. An oxbow lake is formed when a bend in the river is cut off from the main flow by erosion. Many animals and insects are found around this still water. Because of the high water level, it isn’t possible to walk to the lake. As an alternative, I am taken there by boat and make a nature walk near the lake. I put on special socks for protection against leeches, tying them tightly below my knees. Then I step into my boots to deal with the mud. I also put on a long-sleeved T-shirt and a cap as extra protection against leeches. We head upstream. After a few hundred meters, Mali, my boatman, turns left into a narrow creek. I think he’s going to dock here, but the water is high enough to allow us to sail right between the trees.

Malaysia - A leech ready to latch onto prey

Mali skillfully maneuvers the boat through the flooded forest. I am amazed by the sight: the many shades of green of the rainforest reflected in the muddy water. Sometimes Mali has to steer around a floating log. Eventually, we reach the oxbow lake. On the far side, the boat moors at a small jetty. Here my walk begins. The path is narrow and muddy. As soon as I step into the first puddle, I notice that my right boot has a tiny hole in the sole. I feel my foot getting wet. Around me, butterflies flutter, frogs hide among the branches, and birds call from the treetops. Soon enough, I also encounter leeches. The small, wormlike creatures dangle from leaves, waiting. As soon as something warm passes by, they drop down. A creepy thought. We watch out for each other and remove them before they can latch on. I return to the boat unscathed—though I find two in my boots. Luckily, the socks kept me safe. Still, I can’t shake the feeling that something is crawling all over me. On the way back to the lodge, I see a group of hornbills flying across the creek. Their colorful wings stand out beautifully against the sky. The birds then tuck themselves under the leaves for shade. A little farther along, an eagle sits in a tree, and just above the water a brightly colored kingfisher perches. Back in my room, I take a quick shower and check myself carefully again. Luckily, I find no unwanted leeches. In the afternoon, I take it easy. After all, I’ve already been on the river twice today.

Malaysia - A blue flycatcher sleeping on a branch

I decide to skip the afternoon cruise. That turns out badly—when my travel companions return, they proudly show me photos of the Borneo elephants. The herd had been standing right at the water’s edge. In the evening, I do join the night walk. I hesitated for a moment because of the leeches but decide to take the risk. Again, I gear up: the special socks and another dry pair of boots. I follow Aron, my guide, into the forest. With a strong flashlight, he leads the way into the jungle. I trail behind with my far weaker LED torch, just enough to spot the mud and puddles ahead. Aron points out several birds. They are asleep on the branches and seem not to notice the bright light. They can be approached and photographed quite easily. It is remarkable to see how birds sleep like this. I spot a kingfisher and several flycatchers. After about an hour and a half, I return and check my clothes again. A travel companion quickly swats a large leech off my shoulder—phew.