Malaysia > Meeting an orangutan

Malaysia - Richie the male orangutan in Semenggoh Nature Reserve shows that he is the leader

I am woken by the alarm. After a shower and a simple breakfast buffet, I get on the bus. As we leave Kuching, Omar tells us about the visit to the orangutans. In Malaysia, there are three rehabilitation centers for orangutans. Apes that have lived in captivity are taught here how to survive in the wild. The orangutans are fed twice a day, which is a perfect opportunity to observe these impressive animals. Later in the trip, I will also visit the Sepilok reserve in northern Borneo. Omar warns me that this is not the most favorable season. There is plenty of fruit on the trees right now, making it easier for the orangutans to find food themselves. I take the chance, and I am certainly not alone. It’s holiday season in Malaysia, and people keep arriving in small vans.

Malaysia - The orangutan carefully monitors its surroundings

I estimate the group at about 250 visitors hoping to see the orangutans this morning. I feel a slight disappointment at visiting with so many people. The ranger repeats that it’s not the best season and that this is not a zoo—the animals cannot be controlled. He also mentions that there will be no refund if I don’t see them. In a column, we follow him about 200 meters to the feeding site. Another ranger is already on the platform, trying to call the orangutans, but with no success. The platform is a wooden structure in the forest. Ropes are strung from various directions so the orangutans can reach it. About fifty meters away, a viewing point has been set up for tourists. The ranger keeps calling, but no ape appears. I don’t expect one will. The large crowd makes quite a lot of noise, which I imagine might scare the animals. Suddenly, the ranger receives a walkie-talkie message that orangutans have been spotted on the platform near the parking lot. The whole group moves back. When I arrive at the parking lot, I see two young orangutans in the treetops. What a beautiful sight! My earlier disappointment vanishes instantly. They move from branch to branch and occasionally climb onto the platform to grab food. Suddenly, the rangers tell everyone to step back. Richie, the dominant male of the troop, has been spotted and is coming toward me.

Malaysia - The beach at Bako National Park in Malaysia

Moments later, I see the treetops swaying violently. I watch tensely. Richie climbs down the rope over me toward the platform. Hanging wide on the rope, his size becomes clear—he is comparable to an adult human. The flaps beside his eyes give him an impressive look. He calmly sits on the platform, grabs a coconut, and bites it in half, ignoring all the spectators from the parking lot. After an hour, the visit ends. Richie is still on the platform. I say goodbye and take the bus for about an hour to the entrance of Bako National Park, a nature reserve along the South China Sea. To reach the actual park, I board a small boat. We sail across the South China Sea toward the national park headquarters. As we round the corner and reach the open sea, the waves increase. The boat slaps hard against the waves at times. I don’t think it’s very seaworthy. The captain steers closer to the coast to avoid the worst waves. I approach Bako safely. It is low tide, so the boat cannot dock at the pier. The captain apologizes and drops me off on the beach. I step into the water and walk the last stretch to the shore. Through the sand, I reach the cafeteria of Bako National Park, where a lunch buffet is already set up. The macaque monkeys are clearly hungry too, keeping a close eye on me and waiting for a chance to snatch food. I decide to sit inside for lunch.

Malaysia - Male proboscis monkeys have a strikingly large nose

Several trays hold rice, chicken, fish, and eggs—the usual buffet. Depending on what I take, I pay. The method of calculation seems somewhat random and escapes me, but it only costs a few euros, so I don’t worry about it. I stay in a simple room with four beds. At the end of the veranda, there is a shared kitchen, showers, and toilets. I string a cord between the window frames to hang my mosquito net and check that the windows are properly closed to prevent the monkeys from sliding them open and searching the room for food. In the afternoon, I follow a hiking trail through Bako National Park. Walking along a wooden railing, I pass through the exposed mangrove forests. Crabs and spiders scuttle through the sand. On the hillside, I spot a group of proboscis monkeys on the beach. The males are known for their unusually large noses—the bigger the nose, the more attractive the male is to the females. The proboscis monkeys are shy and threatened in their survival. When I observe them, they retreat into the trees and bushes. I continue along the trail to Paku Beach. A walk of “only” 800 meters, but a challenging trail over rocks, slippery tree trunks, and steps. The oppressive, humid heat makes the trek even more strenuous. The sun is shining fully, so it’s not the most convenient time of day for hiking. Although the route is beautiful, I am relieved to reach Paku Beach after about an hour. I take a dip in the warm South China Sea and let the sun dry me on the sand. The return trip follows the same route, which feels easier now that I know what to expect, and it’s later in the afternoon. On the veranda in front of our cabin, I end the afternoon with a beer. After dinner in the cafeteria, I go to bed early. I’m simply tired. I skip the evening walk with the ranger. Tomorrow is another day.