Belize > The fourth hotel room is fine

It’s an early start again, this time to continue traveling to Belize—a long journey today. Since there is a chance that the border post might close at midday, it’s necessary to be at the border before twelve o’clock. This means that the boat is ready at six in the morning to take me back to the other shore. I take a breakfast package with me, as the restaurant is not yet open at this hour. The bus is already waiting on the other shore. The luggage is quickly loaded. The driver, Isai, drives the bus over the bridge in the direction of Tikal. However, well before Tikal, he turns north.

Belize - The water taxi to Caye Caulker

In three days, I will take the same route again when I do go to Tikal. Around half past eleven, I arrive at the border between Guatemala and Belize. Crossing from Guatemala goes quickly. On the Belize side, I must pass customs with all my luggage. Fortunately, my travel bag does not need to be opened. I am now in Belize. From here, it’s still about two and a half hours’ drive to Belize City, where the ferry to Caye Caulker departs. In the first town after the border, I buy some food at a supermarket and order a coffee at a restaurant. It takes a bit of getting used to that everyone here speaks English. Belize is a former British colony. Belize has only 200,000 inhabitants, who feel more culturally connected to the Caribbean islanders than to the rest of Central America. I immediately notice the “take-it-easy” mentality. As I drive further through the country, I see reasonably good houses, lots of open space, and less dense vegetation.

Belize - The luggage goes on a bicycle taxi

The road is fine, although there are many speed bumps. Isai drives the bus slowly over them to avoid harsh jolts on the back seats. As I approach Belize City, a motorcyclist appears in front of the bus, showing the way through the city. Apparently, a cycling race is taking place, and not all roads are accessible. Through various narrow streets, the motorcyclist leads the bus to the ferry dock. In the meantime, I get an impression of the country’s largest city. I see many wooden houses with balconies, reminiscent of New Orleans. Many houses are in need of repair. When I get off at the boat, I discover that the ferry does not depart at half past four but already at four o’clock. The schedule has recently changed, although the signs still show the old times. The luggage is quickly loaded onto the boat. The other passengers are already on board the fast ferry. I take a seat on the upper deck near the driver. He steers the boat out of the harbor and gives full throttle toward Caye Caulker. Behind me, I watch the sun slowly sink and the clouds turn beautiful colors.

Belize - A small restaurant on the main street of Caye Caulker

After about an hour, the island of Caye Caulker comes into view. I get off at the dock and walk to my hotel. The entire island of Caye Caulker is car-free. Only golf carts drive around on the island. I walk along Mainstreet to the China Town Hotel. The room is a disappointment. My room is in a dark corner, right opposite ongoing construction. The hotel is being expanded. In the very small room, there are two beds, leaving barely 60 centimeters of walking space. The room smells of damp concrete. I decide to request another room. The second room is slightly smaller but better for sleeping. I quickly move my luggage. I walk into the main street to get a drink. The town has a reggae vibe. Everything seems to move at a slower pace here. Rasta types try to promote restaurants or tours. I sit at one of the terraces and enjoy the atmosphere. In the evening, after dinner, there is a surprise at the hotel. The new room is flooded due to a leaking air conditioner. Fortunately, the luggage is not wet. There’s no choice but to request yet another room. With a new key in hand, we go to room three. When we try to open the door, it is already unlocked from the inside—the room is occupied. Back again for a fourth attempt. Fortunately, this one turns out to be a decent room in a hotel that just barely manages to meet expectations.