Costa Rica > Monkeys at Caño Negro

When I wake during the night, I notice that the room is pitch dark. There is no light anywhere. The next morning, the sun rises early again, and I am awake before six o’clock. I can already feel the warmth of the sun. Outside, I hear the birds awakening. This is the “Pura Vida” (the good life) feeling of Costa Rica. After breakfast, I head north. Dauren is my guide today and accompanies me to the Caño Negro River. He explains various things about Costa Rica, the landscape, and the crops along the way.

Costa Rica - A howler monkey carefully watches the surroundings

He also mentions a stop for “chicken in the tree.” I have no idea what he means by this, so I wait and see. When I get out at the bridge, I see a large group of iguanas perched in the trees. The “chickens” are warming themselves in the sunlight and don’t mind me at all. It’s funny to see that some of these creatures have climbed up to fifteen meters high in the trees just for sunlight. I spot several types of iguanas. The largest are about a meter long. I can clearly see their scaly skin and beautiful dewlap. It’s a nice preview for the boat trip. After about an hour and a half, driver José takes the bus to the dock. I board a spacious boat with around fifty seats, so I have plenty of choice. Everyone else sits along the sides. Dauren explains that the water level is very high today. A few weeks ago, the water even reached over the road. Because of the high water, pastures are flooded. We steer the boat into a side branch of the river that normally boats cannot access. I immediately see two horses standing in the water up to their bellies, drinking. Behind them, a white heron perches on a post, accompanied by a cormorant. Even the small moorhen doesn’t seem bothered by the high water. Back on the main river, we head upstream. This is more fun because five years ago I had traveled downstream toward the Nicaraguan border.

Costa Rica - A Jesus Christ lizard can run over water due to its fast movements

Henry, the boat captain, and Dauren scan the riverbanks for wildlife. They spot various iguanas and birds. I admire their observational skills. Sometimes I only notice the animals when they point them out. Suddenly, the trees sway wildly. A troop of capuchin monkeys passes by. A few come close to the water’s edge for photos, but most stay safely hidden in the foliage. On the opposite bank, howler monkeys call from high treetops. It’s a wonderful sight to see them move from treetop to treetop. One monkey chooses a weak branch. The dead branch breaks, and he falls into the water, but quickly gets out again. Henry spots a Jesus Christ lizard, a bright green lizard that can move across the water with rapid leg strokes. He also sees a caiman resting on the bank, motionless as the boat approaches. It’s a beautiful trip along the river with many birds and animals. At a grassy field, Henry stops the boat for lunch. Afterwards, we return to the starting point. Just after three o’clock, I arrive back in La Fortuna. Scanning the water has been quite intensive, so I lie down in a hammock with a beer. I try not to fall asleep to be on time for the volcano hot springs excursion. At half past four, José drives me to the Baldi hot springs complex in La Fortuna. Here, the pools are heated by volcanic water. The closer to the volcano, the warmer the water. The hottest pool is 43 degrees Celsius.

Costa Rica - The volcanic baths of the Baldi hot springs near La Fortuna

I find the first pool already very hot and take a moment to adjust. Soon, I am splashing through the warm water. The complex is luxuriously designed. The pools are surrounded by lush green shrubs and trees, with several bars nearby. In recreated caves, the hot water flows down, creating a sauna effect. At the large pool, I climb the slide tower. Unfortunately, one slide is closed for maintenance. I take the fastest slide straight down, reaching considerable speed. Apparently, you can reach up to 45 km/h. I pull my legs up just before hitting the water, creating a large splash. The second slide is curvy. It doesn’t seem as fast, so I go down lying on my stomach, but soon pick up a lot of speed. Since the tubes aren’t as smooth as I’m used to in the Netherlands, it’s a bumpy ride. With another big splash, I land in the pool. They are fun slides. Behind the slides are the real hot pools. I walk all the way to the hottest pool, dip my feet in, and immediately pull them back out. It’s too hot. In the lower pool, it’s possible to adjust and rest on a stone sunbed. It’s wonderful to enjoy the warm water for a while. I end the spa visit with a meal in the restaurant. Because there are few visitors tonight—it was remarkably quiet in the pools—there is no buffet, but I can order from a menu. I choose soup and fish.