Guatemala > Ruins in the street scene of Antigua

I visit the town of Ciudad Vieja, which literally means “the old city.” I am guided by a volunteer from Niños de Guatemala, an organization that supports poor children in this town. I visit a small workshop where chicken buses are refurbished. The old school buses from the United States are painted in the most beautiful colors and decorations.

Guatemala - A richly decorated old American school bus in Antigua

In Guatemala, these buses are true showpieces. Buses are often shortened here to make them more maneuverable on the winding roads. For the drivers, it can sometimes be a risky profession. Bus owners are frequently extorted by gangs, who threaten to kill the drivers if the owner does not pay. It is also occasionally dangerous to drive through neighborhoods controlled by gangs. Further along, I visit a small carpentry workshop where coffins are made. I walk among the very simple houses and eventually arrive at a school established by Niños de Guatemala. I am given a tour of the well-organized school. Back in Antigua, I order a sandwich at one of the restaurants around Parque Central.

Guatemala - The central square of Antigua with one of the volcanoes in the background

Under the trees in the central square, tourists and locals mingle together. Antigua has experienced many earthquakes throughout its history. During the major earthquake of 1773, almost the entire city was destroyed. After this earthquake, the city was abandoned. Only many years later did inhabitants return. Many of the old colonial houses were then restored, allowing the city to retain its historic charm. The colorful houses and cobblestone streets give the town a unique atmosphere. I wander leisurely through the streets. At the bus station, chicken buses gather. One bus is more elaborately decorated than the next. The heavy buses drive back and forth constantly. In the adjacent market, everything is for sale. Small stalls are filled from floor to ceiling with goods. Every inch is used, making the paths very narrow. A striking point in the city is the Merced Church, an ochre-yellow church with a beautifully decorated façade. Inside, the church is surprisingly simple. This church survived the major earthquake.

Guatemala - The ochre yellow La Merced church in the center of Antigua

The same cannot be said for the adjacent convent. The cloister and the large fountain in the courtyard are still intact, but the ruins show that the former second floor with the dormitories was destroyed. The large cathedral in the central square also did not survive the earthquake. Only the front two arches remain intact. The current church is built wider across the front. When I enter the ruins behind it, I can truly see how large the cathedral once was. Only the pillars and some arches are still standing. I walk among the remnants of this enormous structure. It must have been magnificent in its time. Both the Santa Clara Cathedral and the San Francisco Cathedral were also damaged by the earthquake. The latter has been reasonably restored. Here lies the tomb of Don Pedro, a site of pilgrimage. Just before five o’clock, the caretaker lets me into the tomb. The gate closes behind me. I decide to end my walking tour of Antigua and return to my hotel.