Montenegro > Through the Tara Gorge to Goleš

When I wake up, I realize I have slept almost ten hours. Outside it is still misty. Hopefully, it will clear up just like yesterday. During breakfast, a phone rings. I look around to see where the sound is coming from. Nobody reacts. Then I notice it’s my phone, the one Vlado gave me. It’s Vlado himself. “Good morning Ronald, how are you?” He asks if I mind if today someone else comes along who can translate Gašo’s explanations.

Montenegro - The arch bridge over the Tara Gorge

Of course, I have no objection. A little later I make some space in the car for the guide Marco.I set off towards Biogradska Gora National Park. On the way, I drive through the Tara Gorge. With its 1,300 meters, the Tara Gorge is the deepest canyon in Europe. At an arch bridge crossing the gorge, I stop for a moment. From a terrace I have a beautiful view over the Tara Valley. I see people zipping across the gorge on a zipline to the other side. Not something for me. I walk across the bridge to the other side. I’m surprised by the poor condition of the bridge. Everywhere I see crumbling concrete. I give the bridge at most another ten years. From above the Tara River itself, I have a stunning view over the valley and the clear river below.Marco explains that here the bridge is 150 meters high and the total length is 360 meters. It was built just before the Second World War. During the war, it was bombed to stop the German advance. Quite an impressive sight.I continue my route along the Tara River. On both sides I see high mountain ranges. The road winds along the riverbanks. Around noon I arrive at Biogradska Gora National Park. At the Biogradska Gora lake, I get out. Bosco and Nicola are waiting for me there

Montenegro - The lake in Biogradska Gora National Park

. I say goodbye to Gašo and Marco. Nicola takes over my luggage. He is surprised that my luggage consists of only a few plastic bags. I explain that my main baggage is still in Italy. He is fine with that and leaves.Bosco shows me the route for the coming three days on the map. Meanwhile, I enjoy the beautiful view over the lake. Many local families come here to spend their leisure time. I invite Bosco for a Coke at a nearby restaurant. This also gives me the chance to use the restroom. Bosco walks with me along the lake. From every side I have views over the lovely water. Via wooden boardwalks I take in the magnificent nature.When Bosco stops, I find myself at the start of the hiking track to Goleš. Here I say goodbye to him. He points out that the route is only four kilometers, but it’s all uphill. He even makes a steep hand gesture. As soon as I step onto the trail, the path does indeed climb sharply. I estimate the first section goes up at a 45-degree angle. Due to recent rainfall, some stretches are quite slippery. Here too I miss my mountain boots. Still, I climb higher and higher without too many problems. I’m surprised at how quickly I gain altitude. Through the trees I see the lake far below. I keep climbing. The ascent seems endless.After more than two hours of climbing, I reach the top. By then I have ascended more than 500 meters. I follow the signs to eco-lodge Goleš. In the distance, I see a few small houses. I assume this must be the place. I’m right. From afar, someone points out where I should walk. Ranco, the owner, comes to meet me. With many Serbian words he welcomes me.

Montenegro - The Goles Eco Lodge in Biogradska National Park

Using hand gestures and fragments of words, it still turns into quite a conversation.With a beer in hand, I gaze out over the beautiful valley. Ranco talks non-stop. Sometimes I can follow him, but often not at all. I suspect this works both ways. He takes me to my accommodation: a simple but tidy hut with two beds. The toilets and showers are in a separate building. Proudly, he shows me the boiler. A fire under the tank provides hot water for the shower. Quickly, I wash a few clothes and hang them on the clothesline to dry. They can’t hang for long, though, because it starts to drizzle. I quickly take them inside. Hopefully, the weather will clear up before tomorrow.In the evening, a full meal is served: soup, meat, potatoes, a salad. Everything in generous portions, far too much. Later, as I sit by the woodstove, Ranco shows me a book about sports achievements from the region. He appears in it as a cross-country skiing trainer. His daughter is featured for skiing as well. Around 9:30 I say goodbye to him. I get the impression that the family usually goes to bed early. I head to my little house and crawl under the blankets.