Montenegro > Kayaking on Lake Skadar

Before breakfast, I head to the restaurant. A large room with many tables that, I suspect, will never be used. Like everything else in this spacious hotel, everything is fine in itself, but not very cozy. I move to the outdoor terrace for a good breakfast.At nine o’clock, Voc pulls up. He is my guide for today’s kayak trip. First, we drive to Rijeka Crnojevica. Rijeka is only 25 kilometers away, but because of the mountains the drive takes about an hour. The narrow road winds through the mountains, and when encountering oncoming traffic we have to pass carefully. This gives me the chance to enjoy the beautiful views of Lake Skadar.In Rijeka, the kayak is waiting for me. Voc helps me get in. Without taking on any water, I paddle away. Voc gives me a few tips to move forward more efficiently. I pass the old bridge of Rijeka, then follow the stream toward the lake.

Montenegro - Canoeing from Rijeka Crnojevia

On both sides, countless water birds sit on the water lilies. A heron flies overhead. A bit further on, a fisherman has just made a catch. It is truly beautiful to paddle here. Voc spots a pelican. There are more pelicans on the lake, but in this inlet it is unique, he explains.I keep expecting the lake to open up around each bend, but time and again it doesn’t. After six kilometers of paddling, I finally reach the mouth of the lake. Yet even from here, I still cannot see the wide waters of the 40-kilometer-long lake. I decide this is enough and turn back. On the way back, I have the wind at my back, making the route feel a bit quicker. Voc also leads me through a passage between marsh plants. Not only does this cut 300 meters off the route, but it is also a fun section to paddle.The last stretch back to Rijeka is tough for me. By now, I have been on the water for four hours, and fatigue is setting in. I am relieved when the old bridge of Rijeka finally comes into view. On shore, I thank Voc for the trip and invite him for a drink on the terrace. Afterward, we drive back together to Virpazar, where he drops me off around five o’clock. What a remarkable trip.I take a walk into the small town of Virpazar. At the Tourist Information office, I don’t learn much about the possibilities of cycling past the wineries. The lady there seems unwilling to provide information and only wants to sell her map. At the bike rental shop, however, I do get detailed information. I reserve a mountain bike for tomorrow. I end the evening with trout on a terrace by the water.