Montenegro > Cycling past the vineyards

When I arrive at the bike rental, it turns out to be closed. A man across the street tells me they are closed on Sundays. When I explain that I had already rented and paid for a bike, he looks a bit surprised but directs me to a branch in the village. The first bike rental I come across doesn’t belong to my provider, but they advise me to go to the Tourist Info. The lady there is indeed connected with it and can help me. Just take one of the bikes standing there, she says. There are only two left. The super good bikes that were promised yesterday seem to have vanished. To be sure, she closes the Tourist Info and walks with me to the bikes. I pick a mountain bike from the rack. As soon as I ride the first few meters, I notice the chain badly needs oiling. Shifting is stiff too. I can only shift up both front and back, and then I have to manually put the chain back again. Not very practical in a hilly landscape. Luckily, the route isn’t too steep. Halfway through the 17.5 km track there’s a serious climb up to 150 meters. I decide to turn back before reaching that ascent. But before I get there, I see the first sign for a winery.

Montenegro - A wine tasting during the bike tour

I follow the signs past a few houses. An older man comes toward me. Although he doesn’t speak a word of English, I understand that I can leave my bike and should follow him inside. He takes me through a door into a dark room. I enter his wine cellar. From his gestures I gather that I should sit down. He pours me half a glass of red wine. Even though it isn’t yet 10:30, I’m already drinking alcohol. Before I know it, he opens a second bottle, an even better one, he indicates. His wife arrives with a plate of cheese, prosciutto, and olives. The wines are delicious. The man keeps promoting his bottles, but there’s no way I can take wine back in my hand luggage. I cautiously ask how much the tasting costs. At first I understand it’s free, but then he writes a number on a piece of paper. Probably free if you buy a bottle. The amount seems fine to me. He’s happy too and pours me another glass. When we say goodbye, he shakes my hand warmly. He doesn’t give me the impression that tourists visit him daily. But maybe that’s his charm. Back on the bike, I decide not to stop at every winery. Maybe just one more along the way. At a junction I study the map. Here I must turn right, downhill. Further ahead lies a village. I estimate that beyond it the road climbs steeply again. I decide to ride as far as the village and then turn back. Immediately after the junction, the road slopes down steeply. I realize I’ll have to climb this on the way back… When I take the turn into the village, the road starts climbing. After a few bends I have to get off the bike. It’s too steep, especially with this bike. Half walking, half riding, I make my way up. I realize this must be the steep climb in the route. It’s hot, very hot. Much too hot, really, to be cycling uphill. When I finally reach the village, my hopes for a terrace with a cold Coke evaporate. The wine tasting here doesn’t interest me anymore either. Looking closely at the map, I see that the return route via the left side is less steep than this morning’s route. That gives me hope. I descend the hill again. Going down, I notice just how steep the route really is. I descend carefully because I don’t trust the bike. I can squeeze the rear brake almost completely without slowing down. At the bottom I turn left and follow an almost flat road back to Virpazar. I’m relieved when I can finally order a cold Coke on the terrace of Hotel Pelikan. The original plan to ride on to Godinje by bike I abandon. I return my bike, buy a local bottle of Vranac wine and some chips, and enjoy the view of Lake Skadar from my balcony. A beautiful ending to a wonderful holiday in a lovely country. In the evening I eat again on the terrace of the Pelikan. The waiter is starting to recognize me. The food tastes great. For dessert, I get fruit on the house. Nice!