Russia > Wandering through Saint Petersburg

We start the day at a relaxed pace. Once again, the forecast predicts warm to very warm weather. With bottles of water in our backpacks, we walk to the metro. We take the blue line 2 toward the city center but ride one stop further than yesterday, bringing us to the opposite side of the wide Neva River. We emerge just north of the Peter and Paul Fortress. Crossing the bridge, we reach the Ivan Gate, which serves as the entrance to the fort. It was here that Peter the Great gave the order in 1703 to build the city of Saint Petersburg. Over the years, the bastion also served as a prison and a place of torture for many political opponents. The second gate, the Peter Gate, leads us to the inner courtyard of the fortress. The large Peter and Paul Cathedral immediately stands out. Its golden spire gleams brilliantly in the sunlight. Inside, the cathedral is even more impressive. Lavish golden decorations, marble columns, and a magnificent gilded iconostasis create a stunning setting for the tombs of the Tsars.

Russia - The beach on the Neva River next to the Peter and Paul Fortress offers relaxation

Peter the Great, Catherine the Great, and other members of the Romanov dynasty are buried here. Passing the Mint and the former prison, we reach the inner courtyard just as the clock strikes noon. Every day at this time, a cannon shot is fired from the bastion to mark midday. With a thunderous boom, the afternoon officially begins. We leave through the Neva Gate and walk along the river. In the past, prisoners used to arrive here by boat. Today, there’s little sign of that history. On the sandy beach beside the fortress, many Russians enjoy the beautiful weather, while children play in the water. It’s striking how some people stand motionless in the sun, reading a book as they tan. On the other side, we leave the fortress island and cross over to Vasilyevsky Island. Here stand the old Rostral Columns—two former lighthouses—and the Maritime Museum. The island also houses the university complex. We enter the university canteen for lunch among the students, a fun glimpse into local student life. After lunch, we follow the banks of the Neva back toward the Hermitage. On the opposite side of the river, we continue on to St. Isaac’s Cathedral, one of the largest churches in the world. Probably because of its immense height, I underestimate the distance—it takes quite a while before we reach the park in front of the church. In the park stands an equally impressive monument: the statue of Peter the Great on horseback. We walk to the cathedral and buy tickets for both the interior and the dome. As soon as I step inside, I’m overwhelmed by the splendor of the interior. I hardly know where to look—every direction offers something magnificent. The massive marble columns, the dome with a silver dove at its center, and the stunning stained-glass windows of the iconostasis—absolutely breathtaking! I can’t recall ever visiting such an extraordinary church. Once outside again, we have to circle around the cathedral to climb the dome.

Russia - St Isaacs Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in the world

Oddly enough, the ticket office is at the back, while the entrance is on the opposite side. Climbing the 210-step spiral staircase, we reach the upper level of St. Isaac’s. A walkway leads us to the viewing platform around the dome, offering panoramic views in every direction. I can clearly see the Hermitage, the Admiralty, and the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood. From up here, I can trace nearly our entire route from this morning. In the distance, I can even spot the tall hotel next to ours. By the time we’re back down, we realize we’re running late for our boat tour appointment—and there’s still quite a distance to cover. We call ahead to say we’ll be delayed. We make a quick restroom stop at the luxurious Astoria Hotel, where I also withdraw some extra rubles for our final activities. Following the Moika Canal back toward Nevsky Prospekt, we walk longer than expected and finally arrive at the pier almost an hour later. There we meet our fellow travelers and board the boat. For an hour, we cruise through the canals of Saint Petersburg and along the Neva River, passing the Russian Museum, the Hermitage, and the Peter and Paul Fortress. It’s like seeing all the landmarks again, but now from the water—a lovely way to end the day. Unfortunately, the commentary is only in Russian. In the evening, we dine at a cozy restaurant on the Moika River, right next to the palace where Rasputin was murdered. The restaurant has a homely atmosphere, and the books in the shelves are available for guests to borrow. I count my remaining rubles and order a dish that fits my budget. We end the day with a walk back to the hotel. We’re too far from a metro station to make that worthwhile. Passing the famous Mariinsky Theatre and the Alexander Cathedral, we arrive at the hotel about forty-five minutes later. Although it’s nearly eleven o’clock, it’s still light outside—how convenient, these long summer days.