Latvia > Crosses, crosses and more crosses

We leave Nida via the same road we arrived on two days ago. The windows of the bus are fogged up, but I can see the turnoffs to the villages we cycled to yesterday. The cycle path itself is not visible. It runs along the coast, while the main road lies closer to the Baltic Sea. Just past Juodkranté, we stop and take a walk through the forest. Along the trail stand various wooden sculptures carved from trees — in the shapes of gnomes, elves, or dragons. Some are meant to sit on, others purely decorative, or designed as play structures. After about three quarters of an hour, we return to the bus and head toward the ferry.We leave the peninsula and reach Klaipeda on the other side. At the central market square, there is time for a short walk or a coffee break. Afterwards, we continue our journey toward Latvia. On the way to the border, we have lunch in Siauliai.

Latvia - Hundreds of thousands of crosses gathered on the Hill of Crosses in Lithuania

The price of the meal is calculated by weight. It’s a fair system in theory, but you never quite know what you’ll pay for a piece of meat.Just outside Siauliai lies the Hill of Crosses. The first cross was placed here in 1847. Today, hundreds of thousands of crosses stand together. During the Russian occupation, the hill became a symbol of protest. Several times, the Russians removed all the crosses, but each time, even more reappeared. I walk in amazement among the crosses. Narrow paths have been kept clear between the memorial crosses. As far as I can see, there are crosses everywhere — huge ones several meters tall and thousands of small ones filling every gap. The main path leads to the top of the hill. From there, I can truly see how many crosses have been placed here. It’s both extraordinary and surreal.The border crossing a little further on is far less spectacular. Juozaf slows down slightly, but since there is no control, we simply cross into Latvia.

Latvia - The Baroque Rundale Palace in Latvia seen from the palace garden

Just across the border, near Pilsrundale, stands Rundale Palace, in the middle of open fields. This beautiful Baroque palace was built as a summer residence for the Duke of Courland. The palace was designed by Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli, who also designed the Winter Palace of the Hermitage in Saint Petersburg. The palace fell into disrepair during the occupations but is now being restored. In the throne room, ballroom, and banquet hall, you can once again see the grandeur and splendor of the past. The palace gardens have also been recreated, and from the well-tended grounds, the palace looks even more magnificent.Around half past seven in the evening, we arrive in the streets of Riga. Riga is the largest city in the Baltic States, with more than a million inhabitants. Juozaf drops us off at our hotel, which is about a fifteen-minute walk from the old town. At the hotel, we are given the presidential suite — a spacious bedroom with a separate TV room. A luxurious stay indeed.In the evening, we walk toward the district with Art Nouveau houses. On the corner, we find a trendy little restaurant for dinner. After the meal, we stroll to the Daugava River, a wide body of water that flows into the Gulf of Riga. In the old town, we stay until after midnight on a terrace in the square. The evening remains warm, and the square is pleasantly lively.