Lithuania > Wandering among the churches

It was uncomfortably warm in the room overnight. I woke up early due to the heat and the sounds from outside. The hotel is a typical concrete building. We have a simple but perfectly adequate room with a suspended ceiling. A small TV is mounted high on the wall, and the bathroom is sufficient. Breakfast is served in the basement—a decent buffet in a somewhat chilly room. After breakfast, a small group of us head into Vilnius. We cross the bridge over the Neris River and walk past the National Museum. Just behind the museum, we take the funicular up to the castle located on higher ground. Only one fortress tower remains, rising high above the city. From the top of the tower, there’s a beautiful view over old Vilnius. Holding the travel guide in my hand, I recognize many of the city’s churches. We walk down around the castle along a cobblestone path and arrive at the central square by the Bell Tower and the Cathedral.

Lithuania - The Cathedral of Vilnius with the 17thcentury bell tower

The front of the Cathedral resembles a Greek temple. Over the centuries, it has been extensively renovated and adapted. Inside, the Gothic nave immediately catches the eye—absolutely stunning! The church is busy, as a mass is about to begin. On the right at the front, there is a beautiful Baroque chapel that I don’t want to miss. Just before the mass starts, I quickly leave the church. Outside, the old Bell Tower stands in the square. The tower dates from the 17th century, though its base was part of a defensive tower as early as the 15th century. Just in front of the tower is a star embedded in the square. If you walk a circle around the star, having found it yourself, you can make a wish. A Spanish tour group explains the ritual to me in broken English and applauds whenever someone makes a wish. My own wish receives applause too—perhaps it will work? We continue into the old city, turning left toward St. Anne’s Church. This beautiful red brick Gothic church is adorned with multiple small towers and decorative details. A mass is underway, so I only peek through the open door at the elegant interior. Behind it, the Church of St. Francis and St. Bernard is open. Its Baroque interior suffered heavily under Soviet occupation and is now being restored by Franciscan monks. Crossing the Vilnia River, we enter the artist district of Užupis. The bridge railings are covered with padlocks, some marked with names and dates. In Lithuania, it’s a tradition to commemorate a marriage by locking a padlock on a bridge and throwing the key into the river. Užupis is one of the city’s oldest districts and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Lithuania - The Gothic redbrick St Anne Church in Vilnius

The resident artists have declared it an independent republic. On the wall hangs the “Constitution of Už,” in multiple languages, with rules like “Dogs have the right to be dogs” and “Everyone has the right to die.” We stop for lunch on a terrace along the Vilnia River. In the afternoon, we wander through the city. Along the bastion walls, we make our way to the Gate of Dawn. Just before the gate, we pass St. Teresa’s Church. I am impressed by its beautiful Baroque interior. A passage at the back leads to a staircase up to the chapel above the Gate of Dawn, where the golden Madonna is a pilgrimage site. A baptism is taking place in the chapel. Outside, we walk under the Gate of Dawn and find ourselves beyond the old city walls. Next to St. Teresa’s Church is the Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, notable for its colorful green wall behind the altar. In this part of Vilnius, the churches are close together. We reach the Holy Trinity Church via a beautiful Baroque gate. Its restoration, after severe damage, has only just begun, giving the church a somber appearance. This is in stark contrast to the grand St. Casimir’s Church, a striking Jesuit church in the old center, fully restored in Baroque style. Beneath the altar, you can visit a beautiful crypt. Vilnius truly deserves its nickname as the “city of churches”—each one is more impressive than the last. We buy some water at a supermarket and rest briefly on the steps in front of the Town Hall. We continue past the baby-pink St. Catherine’s Church (closed) and the somewhat hidden Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit (also closed). Passing the Presidential Palace and the university buildings, we return to the central square by the Cathedral. Here we enjoy a beer on a terrace, feeling satisfied after visiting so many churches. In the evening, we dine in the atmospheric Pilies Street. We linger on one of the terraces until eleven o’clock, reflecting on a wonderful day.