Italy > The Amphitheatre of Verona

In the large breakfast hall in the basement, breakfast is ready. On a tray, we can put together our meal with whatever we want. The monks of the monastery probably eat here as well—only they came earlier. From the monastery, we hear the sound of morning chants. After finishing, we place the trays in a clearing cart. By car, we head back to the Bologna ring road. Here, we turn off toward Milan and Verona. It is busy on the wide four-lane toll road. Halfway through, the route splits. We follow the route to Verona and the Brenner Pass. Just before noon, we drive into Verona. We have a bed and breakfast on the edge of the city center. It takes a bit of searching to find the exact address. We can only check in at two o’clock, but we try contacting the owner anyway. Maybe she’s at home? We get her on the phone, but she isn’t home. We decide to go to the center first and arrange to check in between five and six. We’re allowed to leave the car parked in front. It’s about a twenty-minute walk to Verona’s historic center. The old town is wedged between a bend in the River Adige. Right after crossing the river, we spot a church. For the San Fermo Maggiore church, there’s an entrance fee. We buy a combination ticket for four churches and basilicas in Verona.

Italy - The ancient Roman amphitheater of Verona

Conveniently, it comes with a small map of the center. In the middle of the old town lies Piazza Bra, the largest square in the city. Standing here since the first century is the Arena di Verona, a Roman amphitheater. In the past, bullfights were held here; today, opera performances take place. A crane is busy hoisting huge stage sets into the arena—we think for the opera Aida. Even though the construction work means the entire arena isn’t accessible, we still buy tickets. From the stone catacombs, we walk into the impressive arena. All the chairs are already in place. In the past, the stands alone could seat 30,000 people. The next square on our route is Piazza delle Erbe. A market is taking place here, and the terraces are full. The Torre dei Lamberti towers above the square. We decide not to climb it. Through the gate beside the tower, we reach Piazza dei Signori—a stately square with beautiful buildings. Verona is the city of Romeo and Juliet. Everywhere, houses have little balconies for lovebirds.

Italy - Impressively large cathedral with imposing statues frescoes and paintings

At the Casa di Giulietta, you’ll find Juliet’s famous balcony. In the courtyard, it’s crowded with people trying to catch a glimpse. We skip it and walk toward the Ponte Pietra. Just before the bridge stands the Basilica di Santa Anastasia, a Gothic 13th-century church with beautiful frescoes. On a street corner in the shade of some trees, we order something to eat. The Ponte Pietra is an old pedestrian bridge over the Adige River. From here, there’s a view of the old town and the dome of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Matricolare—our next destination. This church consists of three parts: the baptistery, the small Helena church, and the impressively large cathedral. Here, too, we step into an overwhelming house of worship, with every corner beautifully decorated. There are two more sights left on our Verona route. We follow the banks of the Adige to Castelvecchio. This former palace now houses a museum, which we decide not to visit. Instead, we take photos of the characteristic bridge over the water with the castle in the background. We finish at the Basilica of San Zeno—also the last church on our combination ticket. We can’t find the entrance right away; it turns out to be on the exact opposite side of the block.

Italy - Monumental Romanesque church with massive bronze doors with religious frescoes

In the church’s crypt lies Saint Zeno of Verona, making it feel somewhat like a pilgrimage site. The church has an unusual layout: the front part is split-level, with the crypt and Saint Zeno’s tomb below and the altar for Mass above. From the back section of the church, at normal floor level, you can’t see either. We take a short stroll through the adjacent cloister and then sit down on a terrace under the trees—time for a beer. Our route has ended on the opposite side of the center from where we started earlier, meaning we have quite a walk back to the bed and breakfast—several kilometers in all. When we arrive, we are already expected. The house is somewhat isolated, surrounded by offices and the ring road. We are the only guests tonight. We arrange to have breakfast tomorrow at eight o’clock and get a tip for a nearby restaurant for dinner. To reach it, we walk just past the city gate across the ring road. It turns out to be a great suggestion. Eating outside the center makes it a relatively inexpensive option, and the food tastes great. We finish with coffee and dessert. Back in our room, we look into options for Venice tomorrow. To be sure of our visit, we already book tickets for the Doge’s Palace. Tickets for the Basilica San Marco can’t be reserved online—or maybe they’re sold out; it’s not entirely clear.