Italy > The Cinque Terre Fishing Villages

On the outdoor terrace, a table is set for breakfast. Inside, a buffet is ready, mostly with homemade products. The owner, Lorenzo, comes by to ask if we want a fried egg as well. That sounds like a good option. After breakfast, we put our luggage in the car. With only the things we need for tonight, we walk to the station. There is a line at the special Cinque Terre ticket counter. Luckily, we are well on time for the 10 o’clock train. At the counter, we explain our plans. A combined ticket is not cheaper for us, the lady behind the counter explains. If we buy the train tickets and the Cinque Terre access separately, it saves over ten euros per person. This means that now we can only buy the ticket for the first train ride to Monterosso. In Monterosso, we still have to buy the Cinque Terre access card for the hiking trail. With our train ticket, we go to the platform. Around us, more and more day-trippers for Cinque Terre arrive. The 10 o’clock train has been canceled at the last moment. We miss the announcement about this. The next train departs at 10:15. The train arrives late, and it takes some time for all passengers to board. Around half past ten, the train sets off towards Monterosso. It is only one stop. We get off at the station and find ourselves immediately on the boulevard by the sea.

Italy - The beach of Monterosso

Monterosso is the first of the five fishing villages that together form Cinque Terre. We walk along the boulevard with the crowd of tourists. It takes a moment to find where we can get the access card for the hike. This is at a Tourist Info in the station. With the card in hand, we start the walk to Vernazza. Just outside Monterosso, the narrow walking path rises. We climb the mountains via stairs made of rocks. Behind us, we have a beautiful view of Monterosso. The weather is alternately cloudy and sunny. Sometimes it even feels threatening. Will it stay dry? Along the way, we pass hikers going in the opposite direction. Sometimes we have to wait for each other on the narrow mountain path. It’s a fun game to guess in advance in which language we should greet each other. When in doubt, we just say “buongiorno.” That always works. Remarkably many Americans are doing this walk.

Italy - On the way to the third village we look back at Vernazza

Halfway, we stop for a moment. With warm water from the thermos, we make coffee. In the distance, we see the ocean. After two and a half hours, we approach the second fishing village: Vernazza. We see the pastel-colored houses lying against the rocks. In the harbor, we order something to eat and drink. Compared to Portofino yesterday, the prices are still okay. Of course, still too expensive. After lunch, we start the second stage. We head for the third village. We will also stay overnight in Corniglia. The walk goes up steeply again. It’s noticeable that it is much warmer in the afternoon. We regularly stop to drink some water. The highest point is exactly halfway. Then we descend again to Corniglia. From the mountains, we can already see this village on the rocky point. What a lovely place to stay. Around four o’clock, we enter Corniglia. The village consists of a narrow street lined mainly with cafés, restaurants, and hotels. Everything seems designed for tourists here. Because the check-in time for our hotel is only at 6 p.m., we sit down at a terrace.

Italy - We stay overnight in Corniglia

The waitress, who resembles Whoopi Goldberg, brings us two beers. We also get a small bowl of chips and peanuts. A bit of salt doesn’t hurt after our effort. When we ask Whoopi where our accommodation is, she laughs and points to the neighboring restaurant. At six o’clock sharp, restaurant De Lantaarn opens. Here we can check in. The rooms turn out to be not at the restaurant but in the parallel street. A somewhat simple room without a window. In the evening, we decide to eat again at Whoopi’s terrace. She recognizes us and points us to a free table. She doesn’t have much time, as orders for other tables are waiting. After dinner, while walking through the village with an Italian ice cream, we are surprised by a procession parade. A statue of Mary is carried through the village in a procession, followed by clergy and music. We follow the procession to our accommodation. Just as we lie down in bed, fireworks sound in the village.