Sri Lanka > Rain in Polonnaruwa

Today, Puja is being celebrated in Sri Lanka because of the full moon. Ajbriy had already told me that this often means rain. Could the two be connected? As I step out of my cabin, I notice he was right. Rain is falling in heavy drops. Looking at the sky, it doesn’t seem likely to clear up soon. A shame, because today I am planning to visit the UNESCO site of Polonnaruwa. Polonnaruwa was founded in 1070 by King Vijayabahu. During his reign, it was the capital of his kingdom. After his death, his successors further enriched the city, until it was abandoned during the attack by King Kalinga Magha in 1214.

Sri Lanka - The Vatadage dagoba in Polonnaruwa

Since then, the jungle has reclaimed the complex. Polonnaruwa is about forty kilometers from Sigiriya. On the way, I hope it might clear up, but the opposite happens—the rain only intensifies. The planned bike tour between the temples is not possible; I will have to do it by car. Ajbriy first takes me to the museum. Models show how the complex must have looked in the past. Photos of the main temples I will visit today are also displayed. In the far south stands a statue of King Parakramabahu. Near the former library, large puddles have formed. Some Sri Lankan children try to navigate the bigger puddles in the central area. I’m wearing my Tevas and can walk through the puddles into the complex. Through the remnants of the palace, the audience hall, and the bathhouse, I reach the Vatadage temple. This circular temple with four Buddha statues is one of the holiest temples for Buddhists. Surrounding it are the Thuparama, the Temple of the Tooth, and the six-story Satmahal Prasada temple. Heading further north, it’s still raining. Large puddles are everywhere. It’s difficult to take photos without capturing a colorful umbrella in the shot. The statue at Gal Vihare is considered the most beautiful of Polonnaruwa.

Sri Lanka - Four Buddha statues carved from a single rock

Four Buddha statues carved from a rock wall are stunning. The fifteen-meter-long reclining Buddha is particularly impressive. Opposite Gal Vihare lies the Lankatilaka temple. This temple houses the largest Buddha statue in Polonnaruwa, a sixteen-meter-high figure. Unfortunately, its head is broken. Finally, I visit the lotus pond, a pool shaped like lotus leaves. Even though plenty of rain has fallen today, the pool is still dry. After my visit to Polonnaruwa, Ajbriy drives me back to Harabara. Since I wasn’t impressed with yesterday’s restaurant, he recommends another one. It turns out to be an excellent choice. While I order my lunch, Ajbriy arranges a jeep for the afternoon safari. Every year, during the dry season, hundreds of elephants gather around the Kaudulla lake. During the rainy season, all the families go their separate ways. I take the jeep into Kaudulla National Park. Although it was briefly dry, the rain resumes in full force as I set off. The driver even stops to close the car’s side screens; otherwise, I’d get completely soaked in the back. At the park entrance, I see numerous SUVs. I’m clearly not the only one making this trip in bad weather. In a small convoy, we enter the park. The driver seems to know exactly where the elephants are, as he barely looks for other animals along the way. The recent rainfall is evident: the vehicle has to pass through deep puddles, sometimes for meters at a stretch. In the back, I don’t stay dry either; raindrops blown in from the roof soak me thoroughly. At the lake, I see a group of elephants.

Sri Lanka - During the dry season elephants migrate to Kaudulla

The numerous jeeps around them are almost embarrassing. I count at least thirty vehicles, while there are only four elephants. The jeeps race through the wetlands, sending water and mud flying. I get splattered with mud as well. Further along, there are more elephants; I estimate the herd at over fifty. I’ve never seen so many elephants gathered in one park. Despite the dreary weather, it’s a magnificent sight. Besides the elephants, I see a few buffaloes, storks, and an eagle—not particularly remarkable. Around five o’clock, I drive back to Harabara. I am quite wet and cold. Although I might have preferred a warm shower first, I still planned to have dinner in a local restaurant tonight, so it wouldn’t make sense to reverse the order. Ajbriy recommends a nice local restaurant where I can enjoy traditional Sri Lankan food. I order rice curry. Beer is not served today because of Puja (full moon). Nevertheless, the meal tastes excellent. Back in my hotel room, the staff have left the words “good journey” on my bed, arranged with leaves and flowers. Nice touch! I quickly take a warm shower. It’s still raining. Could this really be because of the full moon?