Sri Lanka > Horton Plains National Park

In the early hours, you have the best chance of clear weather at World’s End, the viewpoint in the Horton Plains nature reserve. The mountainous area lies around 2,500 meters near Sri Lanka’s highest peaks. When the alarm goes off at half past five, any hope of clear weather vanishes. It’s raining outside. By six o’clock, I get into a jeep that takes me to Horton Plains. It’s still raining. As we drive higher and higher, we pass vans returning. “Look, they’re already going back,” Ajbriy says.

Sri Lanka - At the viewpoint Worlds End in Horton Plains NP

The weather is too bad for a walk. Although I would prefer not to hike in the rain, this area is known to have 200 rainy days a year. I find it hard to believe you can’t hike in the rain. At the top, it’s foggy. Several vehicles are parked with hikers who have already started the trail. I’m going too! I pull a poncho over my head. At the visitor center, my bag is checked. Plastic is not allowed. The labels on my water bottles are cut off, and my packed lunch must go into a paper bag. Although the water is still in the plastic, this raises awareness not to leave plastic behind. I set out for a 9-kilometer circular walk. I start toward Mini World’s End, a viewpoint over a canyon. Along the way, the rain intensifies. The wind over the plateau at the top makes it nearly impossible to use my umbrella. I carefully walk along the sometimes slippery path. Rainwater forms small streams over the trail. A Chinese tourist comes running toward me, looking frightened. He has turned back. From his gestures, I understand that it’s slippery further ahead and requires some scrambling. Although I occasionally step from stone to stone, I find the scrambling quite manageable. Perhaps the tread on my shoes helps. Without much trouble, I arrive at Mini World’s End. Instead of a view, I see a thick mist in front of me.

Sri Lanka - The water cascades down Bakers Fall

From here, it’s still several kilometers to the real World’s End. The canyon here must be three times as deep. I don’t expect a view either. As I reach World’s End, it slowly begins to dry. I meet German and Israeli tourists walking the route the other way. They warn me that the path near Baker’s Fall can be treacherously slippery. Three Chinese girls ask if they can join me. They’re apprehensive about the slippery parts but want to complete the route. They’re from the Beijing area. Together, we walk toward Baker’s Fall. In some areas, rainwater has taken over the entire path. I carefully try to stay on the edges to continue. Fortunately, it’s dry. The Baker’s Fall waterfall is impressive. Due to the heavy rainfall in recent days, the water cascades down with enormous force. On the viewing platform, I get wet from the splashing water. The power of the water here is incredible. I walk back to the visitor center. As I approach, local youths in groups come toward me. They’re just starting their hike. Some are from Colombo and are here for the weekend. A group of over a hundred students is also going on the walk. Most are only wearing shorts and t-shirts and visibly cold. Others wear Santa hats to keep warm. I doubt they’ll enjoy it much, especially since it’s starting to drizzle again. Quickly, I head into the visitor center. I order a cup of instant noodles. Nice and warm. It takes me three hours to complete the circuit. In the jeep, I drive back to the hotel. Along the way, the sun timidly breaks through. Perhaps it’s been dry all morning in the lower areas. Too bad I didn’t get this weather at Horton Plains.

Sri Lanka - The machines used to produce tea

In the afternoon, I go into the town of Nuwara Eliya. At the luxurious Grand Hotel, I order some sandwiches and a cappuccino at the bakery. Afterwards, I wander into the hotel itself. I admire the colonial lobby and reception area. It all looks beautiful, but I wouldn’t feel comfortable staying here. I leave the hotel grounds and walk into Nuwara Eliya. I browse the shops. It doesn’t surprise me that the stalls specialize in sweaters and rain jackets, mostly from The North Face. In the hills around Nuwara Eliya, I visit the old Pedro Estate tea factory. Here, tea is still processed in the old, traditional way. While I’m offered a cup of tea before the tour begins, I run into the couple from London who sat next to me on the train yesterday. Tomorrow, we’ll also be staying at the same hotel. The guide explains the tea process. Every day, 10,000 kilograms of tea leaves are processed here. I’m amazed that the modern processing is still done on machines that are 100 years old. It feels more like a museum. On the other hand, this traditional process gives a fascinating glimpse into how tea has been made for decades.