Nepal > Back in Nepal

The last day in Tibet has arrived—or rather, the last few hours. Today we leave Tibet, and after breakfast we drive a few bends down to the Chinese border in the village below. We arrive more than an hour and a half early, but it’s better to be at the front of the line. One tour group is already ahead of us, and we quickly join the queue. This means we’ll be served quickly once the border opens. The line behind us grows steadily.

Nepal - The local butcher in Zhangmu heads still on the left front

On the other side of the road, Tibetans are waiting to cross the border to work in the Nepalese section (mostly as porters). Occasionally some are allowed through, but if there’s too much pushing, everyone has to wait again. We wait patiently, and by around ten o’clock it’s a complete frenzy behind us. A long line has formed for the border. It’s an advantage to be at the front. Some people, especially the Chinese, try to push ahead, but this isn’t possible at the very front (though they still try). At exactly ten o’clock, the gate opens, and the first tourists proceed to customs. Soon I’m next and officially out of Tibet. A little further on, the luggage is scanned, but the staff at the monitor haven’t started yet.

Nepal - Our apartments in Dhulikel

The process moves along nicely, and within fifteen minutes I’m outside in no-man’s land. The bus has also been checked and has crossed the border. We load the luggage and continue to the Nepalese border. Here, long lines of trucks are waiting as well. Each truck is more elaborately decorated than the last. Although the road is rough, it is dry, and the bus can almost reach the border. The last 500 meters we must walk. We say goodbye to Tamdul and the drivers, who will return to Lhasa tomorrow. Around us, porters push to carry the luggage, but I simply roll my wheeled bag behind me. Exactly in the middle of the bridge is the border between Tibet and Nepal. The line is heavily worn, and only on the railing is the stripe still clearly visible. I am back in Nepal. At the visa office, I fill in a form and am surprisingly quickly served. Once the whole group has received the necessary stamps, we walk about 500 meters to the bus on this side of the border. The bus is also a Tata, which means it’s sturdy! High truck wheels and a low passenger section. The luggage goes on the roof, and we set off. Soon we understand the advantage of the Tata: the road is bumpy with many potholes.

Nepal - The communal dinner on the last evening

It’s striking how different Nepal feels compared to Tibet. This is partly because Nepal is almost two kilometers lower than the Tibetan Plateau. Nepal is much greener, and many more people live along the rivers. We drive through lively villages, see overcrowded buses with passengers on the roof, and pass rice fields. After a lunch at a restaurant along the way, we continue to Dhulikel. From the border, it’s about a four-hour drive. The resort is just outside Dhulikel. The last stretch of the path to the resort is blocked by a pile of sand, so we walk the final part while porters bring the luggage. At High View Resort, we are welcomed with a glass of cola. From the terrace, we have a view over the valley. If there were no clouds, we would see the Himalayan giants. Unfortunately, it’s cloudy. On the balcony of the apartment, we enjoy a beer and a warm shower, something we’ve missed for over a week and a half. In the evening, we have a group dinner on the terrace with a mix of Nepali and Tibetan dishes. During the meal, we thank Jozalien for her efforts as our tour leader.