Tibet > Debating monks at Sera monastery

In the morning, it becomes clear that last night’s pizza didn’t sit well. My stomach is quite upset, so I stick to toast and tea for breakfast. We’re having breakfast extra early today because we want to be at the monastery from yesterday in time to witness the monks’ morning prayers. From the hotel, we walk toward the monastery.

Tibet - The roof of Jokhang Temple

It’s still quite chilly outside at this hour, and though it’s just getting light, the streets are already bustling with activity. At exactly eight o’clock, we arrive at the temple. The curtain at the entrance is still closed. A colorful collection of slippers lies in front of the door, and through a small gap in the curtain, we can see the monks eating. We hesitate — should we wait or just go inside? A monk praying outside signals that we may enter. When we start to take off our shoes, he gestures that it isn’t necessary. Carefully, we step inside and are immediately watched by about forty monks, who continue eating undisturbed. The hall is completely silent except for the sound of eating. The monk we met yesterday during prayers sits third in the row and can barely suppress a smile when he sees us so early in the temple. Each time he glances our way, he has to hold back laughter. We don’t immediately see the other monks we met before. After the meal, the bowls are cleaned, and the prayers begin. The monks chant in low voices, occasionally accompanied by the ringing of a bell. It’s an incredibly moving experience. We sit quietly, listening and observing for over half an hour. At a quarter to nine, we leave the monks to join the rest of the group for a visit to the Jokhang Temple — the most sacred temple in Tibet. At Barkhor Square, we meet up with the other travelers. Thasi arrives a bit late, but once he’s there, we’re ready to go in. However, it turns out the temple doesn’t open to tourists until eleven o’clock; only pilgrims are allowed inside before that. There’s nothing to do but wait. We find a rooftop café, order tea, and enjoy the view over the square. The bathroom, however, proves to be a challenge. The restaurant itself doesn’t have a toilet. That seems unlikely, and after some insistence, a waitress leads us outside, around two corners, to a public toilet.

Tibet - Barkhor Square seen from the roof of Jokhang Potala Palace in the background

As with most toilets in Tibet, it’s little more than a hole in the ground. I do what I must, touch nothing, and leave as quickly as possible. By eleven o’clock, we’re back at the Jokhang. Everyone is present except for our guide. We decide to go in on our own, since the temple closes during the lunch break. We’re far from alone — hundreds of pilgrims are also visiting. The only difference is that we have to pay, while pilgrims can enter for free. We walk clockwise through the temple, following the fenced pathways. When we turn the first corner, we find ourselves at the back of a long line of pilgrims waiting to visit the chapels. Meanwhile, the line on the other side of the fence moves freely along. As we wait, Tibetan pilgrims squeeze past us, literally pushing us aside. It feels strange — this is a holy site for them, yet we, too, wish to see it. We decide to stand side by side, six of us across, to prevent being overtaken. Almost no one can get through — except for a few elderly women who still manage to slip between us. It’s a bit chaotic. When the entrance to the main temple finally comes into view, we see that tourists are being admitted from the other side. Apparently, that’s the designated route for paying visitors. Soon we’re redirected to that line. The entrance area has one lane for pilgrims entering, one for those exiting, and one for tourists in between. Because of the crowds, we stay in the temple courtyard and don’t attempt to enter the inner chapels. Even at the chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni, featuring the famous statue of Sakyamuni, it’s so crowded and hectic that we decide not to push our way in. We respect the devotion of the pilgrims and leave the chapel to them.

Tibet - Meditating monks in Sera Monastery

Instead, we take the stairs to the first floor to explore some of the smaller, less important chapels. Finally, we go up to the roof, where we have a beautiful view over the Jokhang complex, Barkhor Square, and, in the distance, the Potala Palace. In the afternoon, we take the bus to Sera Monastery, about five kilometers outside Lhasa. Thasi is with us this time (and indeed, a morning tour in the Jokhang would have been impossible in such crowds). He tells us about Sera College, its history, and the various Buddha images. At Sera, we attend the monks’ debating session. In the courtyard, monks passionately debate Buddhist philosophy, using energetic hand and foot gestures to emphasize their points. It’s fascinating to watch — and makes for great photos — though it also feels quite touristy. We wander through the monastery complex, visiting the Main Hall, the printing house, and the monks’ living quarters. By late afternoon, we drive back to Lhasa.