Suriname > Encounter with the Shaman

The night was one to quickly forget. Apparently, the meal from the evening before didn’t sit well and caused sharp pains in my stomach and intestines. Perhaps fortunately—or unfortunately—it all came back up during the night. In short, I barely slept, and the prospect of heading into the jungle feeling sick and weak didn’t exactly make me happy. Finally, at six o’clock the alarm went off, though I still didn’t feel well.

Suriname - Paramaribo from the air

We carried the jungle gear and the rest of our luggage downstairs, as we were on the move for eleven days and couldn’t leave our bags in the rooms. After breakfast—just tea for me—we left the hotel at half past seven and drove to Zorg en Hoop Airport in Paramaribo. The name alone inspires confidence. The luggage was weighed and stayed under the limit. Including the bottles of rum for the tribes, we had 92 kilograms with us. We ourselves were also weighed. In groups of five, we stepped on the scale (discreetly), and the total weight was noted. All in all, we stayed under the pre-specified limit. The plane was a small 20-seater. At a quarter to nine, we took off and soon saw Paramaribo disappear beneath us. The Suriname River was clearly visible from the air. The rainforest looked like a vast field of broccoli, with the orange-red road to Brownsberg clearly visible between the treetops. Shortly after half past nine, we landed on the airstrip at Drietabbetje. The luggage was quickly unloaded, and less than ten minutes later, the plane took off again with new passengers for a flight back to Paramaribo. At the airstrip, we met John and his crew. John welcomed us to Drietabbetje and introduced the crew who would accompany us over the next few days. We boarded a ready korjaal. The boat wasn’t big enough for the entire group, so we were ferried across the river in two groups. Here we arrived in the village of Drietabbetje, a Maroon village where time seemed to have stood still.

Suriname - Meeting the Shaman in Drietabbetje

My first impression was like walking through a film set. By around ten o’clock in the morning, everyone was at the riverside lodging. After a mug of lemonade, we quickly got back into the boats. This time, two boats were available, and we traveled a short distance downstream to visit the Shaman. The Shaman is a kind of spiritual priest, connected to the forces of nature and the spirit world. Through rituals, he calls upon these forces to, for example, drive away evil spirits. The Shaman is part of the Winti religion. Upon arriving at the village, the crew first had to request permission for us to visit. At the central area, we saw the Shaman. After permission was granted—a bottle of rum works wonders—we were allowed to meet him and introduced ourselves one by one. The Shaman then stood up and delivered a long speech to John. We could follow very little of it, though we recognized the word “bakra” (strangers), and at times, his tone sounded threatening. John listened carefully and would probably never fully tell us what was said. After the speech, we all received a sip of rum and took a group photo with the Shaman. Then it was time for the Shaman to begin the session. He received women who confessed their concerns. During the exorcism, some were put into a trance. They walked around, shouted, or screamed. Spirits were also driven away by spitting rum over them. The whole spectacle was a fascinating experience to witness, though it felt strange, especially since it wasn’t always clear to us what exactly was happening. After spending about two hours with the Shaman, we returned to Drietabbetje for lunch. We had a few free hours in the program. I decided to catch up on some missed sleep in my hammock from the previous night.

Suriname - Group photo with the Shaman and his assistant

Others followed suit, went for a refreshing swim in the river, or visited the local bar (or whatever passed for one). Late in the afternoon, John led us through Drietabbetje. The village has about 1,500 inhabitants. Most houses stand on stilts to protect against high water. During the high-water period earlier this year, the village center was spared, though the area where we were staying had been underwater. Fortunately, it was now the dry season. During our walk, we attracted a lot of attention, especially from the local youth, who were eager to have their photos taken and see themselves on the digital camera. On the way back, we were alerted to a wild boar near the village. We walked back a short distance and saw the animal on a forest path before it disappeared into the woods. Jan’s attempts to lure it out failed. Back at our accommodation, dinner was ready. By candlelight, we enjoyed a delicious meal and went to our hammocks early to sleep.