Suriname > Cycling to Peperpot

I slept very well during the night, and we hardly had any trouble with mosquitoes. At half past six, the alarm clock woke us up, though it turned out to be an hour too early. An hour later we got up and quickly took a cold shower (it’s starting to get used to). Breakfast was already waiting on the veranda. After breakfast, we cycled a short distance to Fort Nieuw Amsterdam.

Suriname - Cycling between the plantations

Fort Nieuw Amsterdam was originally built to protect the plantation from attackers. The fort also housed a prison. In the prison, we were given a tour of the cells and offices. An old chest was shown, with its keyhole cleverly hidden. Only after some searching did we find the opening (which I won’t reveal here). The guide gave the tour hesitantly, almost as if it were his first time giving it. Outside, by the cells, he just said to the last person in the group, “Well, that’s it,” and walked away. There was no time left to give a tip. Outside, we walked along the distinctive low defensive wall, examined the gunpowder houses, and returned to the main entrance. From Nieuw Amsterdam, we followed the Suriname River back toward Paramaribo. Along the way, the asphalt turns into sand. After a day and a half of cycling, the saddle soreness is noticeable, and the occasional large holes in the road are easily felt. Just before the Peperpot plantation, we take a small path toward the plantation. The coffee and cocoa plantation is heavily decayed. The director’s house is on the verge of collapsing. Restoration is underway, though often this involves complete replacement. Guy asks the manager of Peperpot to give us a tour, but he is reluctant.

Suriname - An old cannon in Fort Nieuw Amsterdam

After a few minutes of waiting, the manager comes out and, in front of his house, tells us about the plantation. He explains its rise and fall and how coffee and cocoa were processed. As we ask more questions, he becomes increasingly enthusiastic. At our request, the factory lock is opened, and we get a tour inside. The bats that have taken over the oven are clearly not used to visitors. Afterwards, he takes us through the village of Peperpot and gives a tour. Around two o’clock, we thank the guide and get back on our bikes. We ride back to the main intersection and turn left toward Paramaribo. Only now do we really notice how hot it can get. We decide to have something to eat at a small roadside café, sitting under a little shelter. The satay and rice taste excellent. We continue toward the boat for the crossing over the Suriname River. On the pier, a boat driver is already waiting. He immediately asks for a high price, and Guy negotiates a more reasonable amount. The man keeps loudly shouting around us and smells strongly of alcohol. When it becomes clear that he will be our driver, we refuse him. A discussion arises on the pier, but no one else can take over his boat. So we unload the bikes and, amid loud protests, load them onto another boat. On the way, our new driver explains that the man on the pier is a problem and is often drunk. The police keep a close eye on him, and he has been caught several times with alcohol in his system.

Suriname - The dilapidated Peperpot plantation

We arrive safely in Paramaribo. We still have an hour to use the bikes and decide to take another ride through the city. It’s a bit of a challenge with the traffic: it’s rush hour, people drive on the left, and the traffic situation is not always clear. Soon, the five of us are riding against traffic, and a motorist quickly stops to warn us. We stop briefly at the city’s large cemetery to take a photo, and a little further on, we take a photo of the large wooden cathedral. After about an hour of cycling, we return the bikes, which are thoroughly checked. Luckily, everything is still intact. We take a one-dollar van back to the hotel, have a beer, and shower. In the evening, we find a cozy restaurant along the waterfront. We sit on the terrace and have a drink. The menu is limited, mainly hamburgers, fries, and satay, which is fine for today. The meal tastes great and is a nice change from rice. We walk back to the hotel in about half an hour, stopping to buy an ice cream at KFC along the way. By eleven o’clock, we are back at the hotel.