Suriname > Climbing to the Teboe Top

Last night, I slept wonderfully again in the hammock — I’m almost getting used to it. The only problem was that I sank a bit to one side because one of the beams was higher than the other. We start the day with a refreshing dip in the river and prepare for the climb up Teboe Top — a steep volcanic mountain about 500 meters high that towers above the jungle.

Suriname - The primitive overnight place in the forest

As preparation, we each get noodles with hot water and a boiled egg. The rest of breakfast will follow after the climb. We take the korjaal (dugout canoe) to the foot of the mountain, walk a short distance through the jungle, balance across a few fallen trees, and finally reach the volcanic slope. Good soles are essential to keep grip on the rock, as some sections are steeper than 45 degrees. Johan, our Indigenous guide, leads us along the most manageable path. Everyone can decide for themselves how high they want to go, so some only walk to the base of the mountain. The second half is especially steep and requires careful climbing. Using both hands and feet, we scramble upward. Although reaching the summit is quite a challenge, I’m mostly concerned about the descent — climbing up is usually easier than climbing down.

Suriname - From the top of Teboe Top you have a view over vast forests

Fortunately, the slope gradually becomes less steep as we near the top, and the final stretch is relatively easy. In the end, only three of us reach the summit; the others decide to stop earlier. From the top, we have a magnificent view over the jungle — trees as far as the eye can see. Strangely enough, fewer than a thousand people live in this vast area. On the horizon, a few rocky peaks rise above the green canopy. We take photos of the view and with our guide Johan before starting the descent. Johan leads the way — wearing only slippers. The descent turns out to be easier than expected. With small, careful steps and a zigzag motion, we make our way down. In about half an hour, we’re at the bottom again, where we rejoin the rest of the group. The boat takes us back to Granda Futu, where breakfast — coffee, tea, and pancakes — is already waiting for us when we land. Since keeping bread fresh is becoming more difficult, pancakes are a welcome change. Even though it’s already eleven o’clock, everything tastes great. In the afternoon, we’ll take a jungle walk, but until then we have free time. The crew immediately crawls into their hammocks to sleep, while we swim, do laundry, or try some fishing. I even shave in the river — quite a special place to do it, and I’m careful not to cut myself. Lunch consists of spaghetti with peanut sauce, and afterward most people retreat to their hammocks again, if only to escape the hot sun.

Suriname - From the river we see the Teboe Top mountain in the background

A little after three, John calls us for the jungle walk. Led by Johan, we trek through the rainforest to another waterfall around the bend of the river — about an hour’s walk. Johan leads the way with his machete, clearing the path when needed. He cuts a liana in half and shows us how to drink the water inside, and he explains about various trees and animals along the way. After about an hour, we reach the rapids, where the water thunders down with great force. This sula is too dangerous to navigate by korjaal, so it marks the end of the route. Part of the group decides to return along the riverbank — walking part of the way over sandy stretches and swimming along with the current in other sections. The rest, who aren’t dressed for swimming, take the forest trail back to camp. Johan chooses an alternate route, sometimes with steep sections. The sun sets quickly, and twilight falls between the tall trees. A little after six, we arrive back at the campsite — at almost the same moment the other group swims in. There’s still time for a short swim in the river before dinner. In the evening, the campfire burns high, and we finish the last beers from our supply under the starry jungle sky.