Malawi > Crossing the border into Malawi

We set off for Malawi. Early in the morning, all our belongings are packed again. Just before seven, we leave the campsite and continue our route toward Malawi. After about an hour and a half, we stop at a local Saturday market. The market is filled with many small wooden stalls. I’m surprised by the size of the market, as there is no large village or town nearby.

Malawi - A local Saturday market in Mozambique

It’s probably a regional market. We walk among the stalls. It’s remarkable because there are no other tourists—essentially, we are the attraction. Everyone first looks on cautiously, but soon flashes a big smile. Goats are already prepared at the butcher’s stall, the bike repairman is fixing bicycles, and various stalls sell old medicines. There’s also a lively trade in refilled soda bottles, which I don’t dare try. Fruit, jars, clothing, food, and much more—truly a unique experience. Back in the truck, we drive for about an hour to the Mozambique-Malawi border. First, we check out on the Mozambique side and then a few kilometers further, check in at Malawi immigration. Overall, it goes fairly smoothly, and once the truck’s paperwork is in order, we enter Malawi. Immediately, the streetscape looks different. I notice many more brick houses along the roads and much more color in the surroundings. Only now do I realize that in Mozambique I barely saw any advertising signs. Here, I see a sign for a “restaurant”—something I didn’t see outside Maputo in Mozambique. At a gas station just past the border, we exchange money. A money changer comes into the truck and converts our Mozambican currency into Malawi Kwachas. I receive an impressive bundle of bills. Counting them pays off, as two notes are missing. I now have 71,000 Kwacha—that sounds good. Outside the truck, we walk around a bit. We try to find canned cola, but it’s unavailable, so we settle for bottles and accept the deposit fee.

Malawi - The butcher chopping meat at the local market in Mozambique

We continue to Blantyre, the financial capital of Malawi. The city looks tidy, with a surprising amount of greenery along the roads. We stop at a shopping mall to buy some drinks and use our new money to order coffee. Blantyre itself has hardly any notable sights. As we drive away, we catch a brief glimpse of the Cathedral. This cathedral dates from the late 19th century and was designed by an untrained priest. It’s remarkable that the building still stands. We continue toward Zomba. Zomba was the old capital of Malawi before Lilongwe. Now it’s a modest town at the foot of the plateau of the same name. The truck is parked in the center for some shopping. We enjoy observing daily life in Zomba. Around five o’clock, we drive toward the Zomba Plateau. Aron maneuvers the truck along the narrow, winding roads uphill. The Zomba Plateau is a mountainous area. Due to its altitude, the temperature is cooler, making it a perfect area to relax. However, many people earn a living here through forestry. At the “Trout Farm,” we set up our tents. While pitching the tent, we realize it is exactly on an ant nest. Within seconds, I’m bitten dozens of times. We quickly move the tent to a safer spot. At dusk, we finish setting up the tent and then enjoy a drink by the campfire.