Malawi > Hippos in the Shire River near Liwonde

Just before half past seven, the truck is loaded, and we drive down from the Zomba Plateau. Fortunately, Aron and Israel managed to find diesel yesterday. There is currently a diesel shortage in Malawi, and almost all fuel stations are sold out. They obtained diesel on the black market yesterday—enough to reach Zambia. I can really feel the descent. Despite the early hour, every turn makes it feel warmer.

Malawi - The viewpoint in Liwonde National Park towards the Shire River

Down in the town of Zomba, we walk through the center and along the local market. It’s a jumble of stalls. Everyone smiles warmly, and no one is pushy. Passing people takes some getting used to; we have to stay on the left side, just as traffic does. I often move to the right instinctively. Back at the truck, we continue toward Liwonde National Park. It’s a short drive today. Just after ten o’clock, we arrive at the park entrance. Here, we stay in tents on a veranda with proper beds and sanitary facilities. Unfortunately, only seven tents are available. We draw the short straw and sleep in a room inside near the reception. It’s a decent room but not very adventurous. It’s very hot today, so we take it easy. We walk to a viewpoint on a plateau in a tree, with a view over the plains toward the Shire River. In the distance, we spot some waterbucks and warthogs. At half past two, we gather for a boat trip on the Shire River. We board a small boat and head north. Fishermen in small canoes greet us, trying to catch their daily food. Soon, we come across a large group of hippos in the water. They lounge lazily and yawn frequently with open mouths—a stunning sight. The boat gets to within about twenty meters of the massive creatures. Along the shore, we see various birds perched.

Malawi - A hippo yawns and shows its sharp teeth Fortunately its a vegetarian

The skipper spots movement in the distance and steers the boat as fast as possible toward it. Elephants on the bank! A group of about forty elephants passes along the riverbank against the edge of the forest. Just as I try to take a photo, my battery dies—and I forgot the spare. What a bummer! I decide to enjoy a lukewarm beer from the cooler and simply watch the spectacle. On the way back, we see a hippo grazing in the marshy grass. Suddenly, it seems to get fed up and runs toward the water. It charges straight at us—I’m startled. With an enormous splash, it dives into the water, then makes a sharp turn about ten meters from our boat and swims away quickly. The wake from its dive makes our boat bounce up and down. What incredible speed such an animal can achieve! By around six o’clock, we are safely back at the campsite, celebrating Dick’s birthday around the campfire.